Here is a map for those who might want to bag the ...
Description
This is a major alpine traverse and ski descent that needs a good snow year to set up. Meeker's south side couloir, the longest continuous ski descent in RMNP, is visible from most of Denver and yet seems to be an unknown challenge. I'm adding this route because after several years of drought, the Blizzard of '03 has set this monster up real nice.
A car shuttle takes both 1,000 feet off the climb and a few miles off the total hiking. Start at the Long's Peak Trailhead and Finish at the Sandbeach lake Trailhead.
Climb the Loft Route to summit Mt. Meeker. Then awkward third class across the summit boulders and down (80 foot elevation change) eastward to the top of the Dragons Egg Rock Couloir. Ski the couloir from 13,800' down to Hunters Creek, 10,850'. After the first few turns in the upper couloir, Kirk Miller and I traversed, skier's left to avoid a big rock. We hit the thinnest, rockiest, snow near the Egg, then the snow got good again and lasted almost to the creek. I think that following the creek down to the trail would be really difficult. Cross the creek as soon as you can. Then, begin a mile of collapsing snow mixed with snags and boulders to get to Sandbeach Lake and the salvation of the trail.
Couloirs are hard to rate. I would say the skiing was not as dangerous as the South (Christo) Couloir on Quandry.Torrey's North Face is actually the only ski run in the Front Range that I would say is better (longer, later season, less approach, but not as gnarly a climb. Perhaps the best comparison is to say that Meeker's skiing is very much like Torry's, without the crux choke.
There are actually two major snow gullies on Meeker's south side. We did the eastern one. The difficulty of climbing Meeker was a surprise and very exposed in places for ropless, cramponless, climbing.
Protection
Two cars for the shuttle. Tennis shoes for the traverse across the summit. Ice axe and/or self arrest ski poles for the Loft Route's exposed crux.
A rope (and all the other gear that implies), might be nice for getting down to the top of the couloir from the summit. Maybe crampons too on the Loft Route.
We only brought Whippets and tennis shoes, along with our skis and boots, because we felt it was neccessary to travel light. Even then it was still quite a slog to get the ski gear to the top and across. If your more of a skier than a climber type, then hike in from the Wild Basin side. This really adds to the approach and might require a bivvy, but no skier would need a rope to climb the coulior. Leaving the skiis at the top of the couloir could make bagging the summit, and getting back down, less of a potential pole vault event.
On 5/3, we departed from and returned to the Sandbeach Lake Trailhead, thus avoiding the shuttle. We climbed up Meeker ridge to about 11,000 ft, then traversed over to the most eastern of the two couloirs east of the dragon's egg, and climbed it direct. It was a long day (close to 11 hours), but it was well worth the effort. There was enough snow to ski within about 1 mile of the trailhead.
Typical spring conditions for this type of altitude. Transitioned from hard, firm snow up top to creamy corn in the middle, to sticky mush at the bottom. This will be good until about mid June '03 if we keep getting cloudy, unsettled weather.
Great view of the park and the northern Indian Peaks. Long, long long ski down. Around 35 degrees.
If we had stayed on the Meeker Ridge until the summit, we would have had to cross an awkward class 3, exposed ridge with HUGE wind gusts and heavy backpacks. I would highly recommend a rope for this route. The couloir we did climb was quite uneventful until the last 150 vertical feet. You must navigate through rocks and thin snow. Definitely recommend an axe and/or crampons for the top.
By RidgeRat From: Golden, CO Apr 24, 2008 rating: R
Notes from a climb dated 3/3/2007: (sorry for redundancy)
You can do this route without a shuttle from the Sand Beach Lake TH at the Wild Basin RMNP entrance. The base of Mount Meeker can be reached in the winter by bushwhacking north for 1 mile from Sand Beach Lake.
Hiking the extra distance along the trail all the way to Sand Beach Lake, instead of turning off at Hunter Creek, offers a shorter snow slog, plus you can just follow the creek up if you get lost.
Before turning off trail take a bearing of the summit and keep on it. You will regain the view just before Meeker Meadows. Meeker Meadows is a fantastic place to camp. Lots of ptarmigans. I also saw tons of bighorns on a summer hike through here.
The summit of Mount Meeker can be reached by following the southwest ridge (middle left, above the egg in the Meeker Meadows photo) to its intersection with the West (left, perpendicular) ridge.
The tricky part is a traverse at the intersection. There is a very exposed class 3 section. Axe and crampons are in order. A rope and some rock pro for a belay wouldn't hurt either. There are a lot of possibilities for obtaining the West Ridge. Stay on easy terrain for as long as possible.
A Very long day if you do it one push from the Sand Beach Lake Trailhead.
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