White Room 

FA:  Roger Briggs and Larry Hamilton, June 1974 Type:  Trad, Alpine Length:  7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Views: 476 page views Submitted By: L. Hamilton on Apr 10, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Roger Briggs on the third pitch of White Room (FA)...

Description 

White Room wanders up the broad wall to the right of Optimismus, finishing up a prominent corner. The climbing is excellent but serious. The first ascent party, who climbed this route hammerless and without camming gear, wrote afterwards that they were "impressed by the steep, usually difficult, inobvious and solid nature of the rock, and also by the occasional poorness of protection and belay anchors." Fortunately, no falls were taken. They rated the route IV 5.10.

The poorly-protected 5.11 section at mid-height on the current line was originally bypassed via devious and poorly-protected 5.8. Escape is possible at several points above, but the final two pitches are the climb's best.

The route name refers to the climactic inside corner, with overtones of madness and electric guitar.

Protection 

Modern rack, mostly thin with some wider pieces up to 3.5 or 4".

Photos of White Room Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: E face of Notchtop, showing approximate lines of (...	Roger Briggs stemming the final corner pitch of Wh...	Roger Briggs on White Room, pitch 6 (FA).