By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Aug 16, 2004
| The route is really cool and really unique--The crack is truly hard. I don't know how hard to lead onsight, but HARD. The 12b grade sounds reasonable. The traverse might feel hard, but isn't very. Think in terms of the traverse coming out of the roof of Jack The Ripper in Eldo, but twice as long and not as steep. The holds are positive and the feet are non-existent, but the rock allows some friction. I don't think it would get 5.11 if you were not already pumped from the crux at the crack. Very cool though. Presently there is a fixed wire on it at a convenient place to clip--seems so-so and would most likely hold (another?) fall. |