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Taylor Glacier 

   
Type:  Trad, 1200', Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,159
Submitted By: Brendan Sheehan on Jun 6, 2002

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Chris "Fergie" on a couloir right of Tay...

Description 

Ascend talus and/or snow above Sky Pond to the base of the glacier. The angle is shallow at first but steadily steepens to around 60 degees by the end. The main couloir, on the right, narrows around 250 feet from the top, and the direct finish can be blocked by a cornice. Alternatives to heading straight into the cornice: 1. 250 feet below the cornice a branch couloir leads right and may or may not have a cornice itself. 2. about 50 feet below the cornice a short, steep snow slope angles left, and reaches the divide. The condition of the cornice can be examined from below, and from as far away as Bear Lake parking lot. In good conditions, crampons and one alpine axe is all you need. If the snow was too soft, or icy, a second axe and/or a rope and some pro might be justified. On 6/6/2002 the step kicking was perfect and the rope and pickets stayed in my pack. Andrews Glacier is the easiest decent. Fantastic views of the Sharkstooth from the route.

Protection 

In good condition the route needs no rope or pro. If snow conditions are less than ideal, or you want to tackle the cornice directly, or go around the cornice on rock, a couple pickets and/or a small amount of rock gear might be used.


Photos of Taylor Glacier Slideshow Add Photo
7-12-08_9:30am. Ryan about to top-out on the farth...
7-12-08_9:30am. Ryan about to top-out on the farth...
Our routes...red = ascent. Green = descent.
Our routes...red = ascent. Green = descent.
Taylor glacier from Sky Pond - Snowboard decent ro...
BETA PHOTO: Taylor glacier from Sky Pond - Snowboard decent ro...
Taken July 12,'08 from Taylor Peak. Green line is ...
BETA PHOTO: Taken July 12,'08 from Taylor Peak. Green line is ...
Following "Edge" up the headwall.
Following "Edge" up the headwall.
Near the base of the main couloir, when the slope ...
BETA PHOTO: Near the base of the main couloir, when the slope ...
View from Petit Grepon.
BETA PHOTO: View from Petit Grepon.
Close up of the deep cut runnel down the middle of...
BETA PHOTO: Close up of the deep cut runnel down the middle of...
Photo of Ryan just before a left traverse so we co...
Photo of Ryan just before a left traverse so we co...
Looking down at the ski descent of the main couloi...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the ski descent of the main couloi...
Approaching Taylor.
Approaching Taylor.
Early Oct '07, up in the narrows.
Early Oct '07, up in the narrows.
Looking down at Brian Montgomery.
Looking down at Brian Montgomery.
Aaron Miller up on Taylor, early Oct '07.
Aaron Miller up on Taylor, early Oct '07.
STEEP!
STEEP!

Comments on Taylor Glacier Add Comment
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By Brendan Sheehan
May 25, 2003

The red dots in the picture cut left off taylor glacier about a third of the way up. The main line stays right in the narrowing couloir. The options around the cornice discussed above come into play very near the top.
By mebbing
From: Bend, Oregon
Jul 15, 2008

Found great early July conditions in the left-most couloir. Out of view to the left as you approach, it was in the shade much later in the morning than the Taylor Glacier Headwall proper. Very fun conditions - never able to kick in more than 4 or 5 inches this morning - solid, even at 8:30 - 9am. I uploaded a few pics, one showing how this line is well left of the standard climb. It was probably a little more moderate than the center & right headwall, but it did reach 60 degrees for the top hundred feet of the climb.
By Andy Leach
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 4, 2008

Conditions could not have been more perfect 8/3/08. It was great to beat the heat of the Front Range and play in the snow. Here are some photos: andyintherockies.com/trip/110/...
By EMT
Nov 5, 2008

The top 200' starting to fill in with sugar snow over hard ice. Walked over to Andrews and slid down that to get home.