the South Face of the foil starts out a lemon but the upper half is classic. being a solid 5.9 leader is a good thing on a few of the pitches on this route. start up the lichen covered ledges and hit the sanbag 5.7 chimney above. by way of the rossiter topo we almost linked the 1st four pitches in two with a 60m rope. the only runout section on the runout pitch felt to be around 5.7/8? with a strenuous, well protected 5.9 section after that.
just make sure you traverse left in the right spot to find the second to the last pitch. this is so damn good and exposed. this is the pitch you want to lead so make sure your partner doesnt get it! you can also link the last two in one with 60m. after finishing the summit ow you can take turns standing on perhaps the narrowest summit in the park.
Protection
bring along the old high peak rack up to a #4 camalot and some xtra small wires and tcus.
Did this route many years ago & the description is right about finding the correct path to the left on the last pitch. My partner didn't, & instead did a funky, lichen-covered, weird up & down face traverse to the right across the top of the east face then up to the summit. I don't recommend that finish - find the line.
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