After crux move a nice traverse, climber: Peter Ya...
Description
A nice long route to do if you want more challenge than the Barb or Age Axe. Good climbing, varied, and just enough excitment to keep you focused. A good "entry level" 5.11, easier than Statospear, the Fieges Direct on the Barb, and Spear Me The Details. Not as popular as it deserves to be, I suspect due to the Eye of Mordor section which seeps in even the driest years. My description differs from both Gillet and Rossiter, particularly in how one accesses the Eye, the obvious eliptical feature in the lower left quadrant of the wall. I think the published "direct" approach from the bottom of the right side, while reflecting the line of the original aid ascent, is probably not free climbable 90 percent of the time (if at all), and is certainly not the 5.9 these guidebook authors call it. P1: From the left side of the wall climb a long easy pitch to a double ledge system. P2: Continue up right a bit to the highest terrace, about even with the start of the Eye to your left. P3: Climb up to an obvious left-diagonal crack in the slab (runout 5.8, a 2.5 Flex Friend placement can be found) which leads to the right side of the Eye of Mordor about a third of the way up it. Continue to the top (wet) and a belay at 2 fixed pins. Rated 5.9+ by Gillet, I thought it was at least solid 5.10. P4: Follow 5.8 flakes up and slightly left, then belay on a large ledge well left at rap anchors (three raps to the ground). P5: Now move back right 30 feet to a R-facing corner with a spot of 5.9 and 3 fixed pins. Belay in a circular niche from 2.5 to 3.5" cams. P6: Move left on unprotected 5.8 or 5.9 face, then follow an easier crack to a stance at slings and 2 old bolts. P7: Clip a bolt and do a difficult standup move off a flake to a second bolt. Follow a long undercling left (5.10-), then up to a good ledge. The crux standup will be exciting for the 2nd, as well as a tad dangerous for the leader- a fall may land you on the flake just off the belay. It can be aided. P8: Step left, then follow a nice crack system (5.9) to an overhang, step left, and head for the top.
Protection
Two sets wireds to 3" cam, one 3.5" cam. Include RPs and TCUs. The four bolts on P7 (2 belay, 2 pro) are adequate but should be replaced. 2 ropes mandatory to bail from above P4. 60m ropes recommended.
The first bolt on pitch 7 of this route is missing the hanger. Found this out last July while climbing Three Stoners, no way to back it up that I could find. A fall here would land you right on the belay.
My buddy Jeff Giddings and I replaced the hanger on the crux pitch's first bolt on 7/10/05. I found the crux move to be difficult for .11a, and subsequently "tested" (i.e. fell on) the bolt several times before pulling thru. Bolt seems to be in good shape.
All in all, a wandering route that has good climbing and travels thru some cool terrain.
Spearhead
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