First pitch. Second to last rappel anchor on the ...
Description
This route follows the standard descent route, so get an early start. You will want to be on the last pitch by the time the folks on the northest ridge route finish. There is some loose rock at the end of the first rap. To get to the start of the climb, scramble up the east side of Sharkstooth. There are great views looking down at the Petit Grepon from the start of the climb.
P1: Scramble up the start of the gully and work out a belay on the right side of the headwall. (easy 5th class)
P2: Make a rising traverse to the left through the headwall. Continue upwards, and belay above a 25 foot, right-facing dihedral. (185ft, 5.4)
P3: Scramble up through some lower angle rock and belay on the right side of the next headwall. (~100ft, easy 5th class)
P4: This is the best pitch of the climb. I think that there are other varitions, but this is how we climbed the route. Angle left through the headwall and end up on the prow. Peek over the edge and check out the amazing exposure. Head straight up the arete with steep face and crack climbing. There are a few fixed pitons on this pitch. This pitch gets three stars. Make sure you let your partner get the first lead, so that you can lead P2 and P4. They are the best pitches on the climb.
As of 9/20/03, the left side of the bottom of E gully is caked in ice and snow, with minimal sun exposure. Also, there is scattered snow in The Gash (from 1" to 3'), making the approach slick and dangerous in spots, especially near the top. On the other hand, the marmot activity is low...our lunches were left untouched.
The description of the last pitch is exactly right, if every pitch on this climb was like the last it would be megaclassic. Unfortunately, the lower pitches are mostly easy scrambling over broken, loose, ledgey segments with occasional short, steeper quality 5.4 spots. It is hard to recommend this as a destination climb with longer quality routes close by, but it is fast. On a day when we intended to do the NE ridge but found it occupied, we were up and down this route before they reached the ridge crest. A loooong hike, but a great summit and marmots got our lunch.
Did this route a couple of weeks ago. Decent mellow climbing to a great summit. Couldn't stay on the summit very long due to impending doom of potential electrical storm. Apparently my hair was standing straight up at one point and we heard a disturbing buzzing among the rocks. Freaky!!
We climbed the Northeast Ridge of Sharkstooth and descended the East Gulley rappels to the saddle behind the Petit.
Since our bivy was at Sky Pond we descended the gulley that is to the east of the Petit Grepon, with several rappels. This way was not so bad, but thankfully we were the only party in the gulley, as it was real loose with some rockfall.
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