Justin on the 5.10 undercling section of the secon...
Description
Cowboys and Indians is the most popular, and perhaps finest, route on the NE Face of Chiefshead. At 11 or so pitches, it is one of the longest routes in RMNP.
On the right side of the wall, and just left of obvious terraces, find a thin finger crack (5.10d) leading to 3 bolts which protect 5.10 climbing. Belay on a ledge below an imposing, left trending roof.
Undercling the roof left (strenuous) to a stance out left (optional belay) and continue up an easier left facing corner. If you skip the optional belay take care you don't stick your rope in the left edge of the roof (probably better to belay at the intermediate stance - then you get to watch your second undercling the roof). Climb a short left facing 5.9 corner leading to easier (5.8) climbing and a ledge (short pitch). (Ten Little Indians crosses the route here.)
If you belayed at the optional belay below, it may be possible to combine this pitch with the following 5.10a pitch. Head up slightly left, then straight up past an overlap and 3 bolts, 5.10a or so, to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.
Now climb the pretty wall above (3 bolts, soft for 5.11a) to a right facing corner, 5.8, and belay above.
Now climb a (second) bolted section (rated 5.11c on one topo I have seen, but no way) which leads to a ledge- a long 165+ foot pitch, optional belay out left and lower at a fixed wire. Move up and left across a corner roof (5.10a) to a 5.8 crack and belay ledge above.
A 5.9 crack groove leads to the large ledge and cave area which is the most prominent feature on the upper wall. It is on these two previous pitches that routefinding gets fuzzy, and you may find yourself climbing something that bears no resemblance to my description.
Walk right 140 feet to below a steep corner with a couple of fixed pins and belay.
Climb the corner (a 5.11c boulder problem), with the fixed pins a bit lower than you would like and continue to a nice, if cramped, belay ledge.
Now either head right under a roof, then up a right facing corner (5.9), or go up and left from the belay on spicy 5.9 face, belay, then climb the "hanging gardens" 5.4 pitch to the top.
Protection
RPs, wired nuts, TCUs, to 3 inch cams. 10 QDs, 6 slings.
There is a runout 10- section starting the second pitch,and a short, runout 5.9 section on the left hand finish of the last pitch. The crux pitch is not runout if you trust the pins (they seemed decent) although the gear is a bit tricky in the corner above the pins. The first pitch felt really stout for mid-5.10. The initial thin crack seemed quite heady, and the moves up to and past the first bolt felt like 5.11. Numb fingers and "first-pitch-of-the-day-syndrome" probably contributed to the difficulty, but be ready for REAL climbing immediately off the glacier. Conversely, both 11a sections on the middle pitches of the route felt more like mid 5.10.
This is an excellent route on a wall bigger, and more remote, than the Diamond with good variety, good rock, spectacular views, and no other people. Highly recommended.
I would agree with Jason's comments. The climbing (except for the first pitch) felt a bit softer than the ratings would imply (or maybe I was prime that day). There are plenty of .10aR and .9R sections, but the crux pitch is not R if you trust the pin that's at your knee. There was a lot of good gear in the corner past the pins. I feel like a lot of people get scared away from this excellent route because of the 11c R rating, which is unfortunate. But, it's still a serious route due to the runouts on more moderate terrain and the fact that you're going to burn through your entire rack if you have to bail.
I did it July 12th. The weather was great and the day was long. The last 5.4 pitch was dripping and oozing, but I was able to traverse right under the overlap (5.8) to easier ground to gain the ridge.
BTW, we linked pitch 3 and 4 with a 70m rope with 10m to spare.
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