Direct South Ridge 

I checked the guide, and we did do the "Original Finish". The climbing was really good, although Rossiter doesn't give it a star (I imagine because the now-standard finish is really spectacular, as I remember it looking). We took it because the party ahead of us had been kind of slow, and they were taking forever on the short supposedly 5.6 pitch. I don know if they found it; Eric Winkleman, who was behind us, seemed to suggest that he did...do you have some idea of where the correct way to go is, George? Does anybody out there know?

The descent for this route is low fifth class, time consuming, and rather scary!

Eric Winkleman has done the route several times, and knows the route better than anybody I know. That tricky pitch involves some devious traverse (I can't remember which way!). However, Bill Wright attempted the route last summer with tons of beta from Eric and still got confused, also the weather came in and they had to bail.

We also became lost searching for the infamous 5.6 chimney. Charles, is the variation you describe the same as Rossiters 4b "Original Finish"? On pitch 4, we found ourselves at the base of a short right facing dihedral directly on the nose of the South Ridge. From here you can see the final 5.9 pitch in Rossiter only about 75-100 above you. But the short right facing dihedral is RP sized and brutal to free climb. We resorted to a move or two of aid (on RPs). Brett Ruckman told me later he has done it free at 5.11. He also said it is quite common to get sucked into the thing. So be warned! Above that we were definitely on route, the last 5.9 pitch (described in Rossiter) is excellent.

I made a mistake in describing the second variation on the upper part of the route. I describe a "prominent slab", but to get to it from the belay ledge above P3, you have to do a short easy pitch, on the west side of the ridge, up to the ridge crest. This could easily be done as the continuation of pitch three, but then you are commited to the variation. Also, to get to the ramp at the base of the route, go up left of the SE corner.

I think the guidebook confuses the issue by describing two different routes. I've done this twice and, in my view, the best route combines pitches from the regular and direct routes. I got lost looking for the 5.6 chimney. My advice--when in doubt, stay close to the arete until you see the obvious face with cracks breaking out right on the fifth pitch. Heading more than 15 feet left of the arete on pitches three or four just leads to trouble and far less aesthetic positions. By the way, there is a rap station on the North side of the summit, maybe ten feet below the top. It drops you into the notch from which it's easy to scramble north.

Tom Isaacson

I just did this route today and have a few things that may help. First, from the top of the first 5.9 pitch we climbed the 5.8ish crack over a small roof and up to a ledge directly on the prow. Instead of belaying here we continued up for a short ways on the left side of the prow up easy disjointed blocks, to the crest of the prow and belayed a short ways further up (now back on the right hand side of the prow). From this belay you can see the start of the upper headwall 5.9 pitch about 40-50 feet above you. About 20 feet above you and to the right are two parallel rp sized cracks on a clean white face. I think that this is the crux as described in the RMNP guide since it goes fairly easily on aid and in the 5.10 range free. This short pitch can be easily combined with the upper 5.9 pitch.Second, there is an alternate descent using three rap stations on a route on the backside (gully side) of Notchtop. Finding the first set of bolts is a bit tricky but once you find them the raps are fairly obvious. To find the first set of bolts scramble down to the saddle about 70-80 feet from the summit. Continue scrambling down into the steep gully below the saddle (you probably want to be on rope) a short ways until you see a ledge break off to the left (if you are facing downhill). There is a fixed pin on this ledge. The bolts are just around the corner on this ledge out of sight. Hope this helps.

From the start of P1 as described above, we did this route in 4 pitches with a 60-m rope. We climbed P1 as above, belaying on a stance a few meters above a large fixed nut. Then combined the P2& P3 described above (~60 m total), then climbed a short pitch that ended with a short rightward traverse out to a belay on the arete (we didn't find anything we'd call a chimney on this pitch, but we seemed to end up in the right place). From this belay we topped out with a long pitch. Done this way, P1&3 are easier leads; the harder climbing is all on P2&4, so this is a good option if one leader is distinctly stronger. If using the rappel descent, the descriptions above for finding the 1st set of anchors are good. Note that as of 7/04 it was possible to rap down to near where the 1st set of bolted anchors is, from a sling anchor reached by scrambling down & climbers left from the top of the route, avoiding the sketchy downclimb down the loose gully. The 2nd set of bolted anchors is roughly 45 m directly below (or perhaps even slightly to climbers right) of the first set- do not veer over into the gully. The bolted anchors are a bit hard to see; no rats nest of slings like most alpine anchors, but make for a quick descent.

Did this yesterday and thought it was really good. Gillett's newest guidebook calls this route "South Ridge Right" with the 5.6 chimney variation to keep the overall grade at 5.9. His topo is dead on for all but the variation (the topo doesn't show it). I, too, became confused by the words "5.6" and "chimney." The 5.8 pitch (above the spectacular 5.9 corner/roof pitch) ends on a big ledge system that leads around to the W side of the ridge crest. There is a short 5.6-ish, chimney-esque section just L of the ridge which leads to a nice ledge back on the crest. From here, heading up and R for 30-40 feet puts you at the bottom of the 10d RP pitch, therefore negating the benefits of the variation. Another alternative, which we ended up climbing, was further around the corner from the top of the 5.8 pitch. It goes up above the large detached block into a shallow L facing corner through a couple of small overhangs with cracks and holds. Look for a fixed cam in the first one. This is about 5.7-5.8 and really fun, and ends with a traverse R back to the exposed stance below the upper 5.9 pitch. It may be possible to climb the "5.6-ish chimney" and traverse around the corner to the line we took (looks envigorating). The last two pitches easily run together and are also magnificent.The standard descent is airy but easy -- we stayed roped until the notch and left our rock shoes on until the exit scree gully. This only took about 20 min from the top of the route, but would be really spicy if ti was wet. This is a great route with sustained and varied climbing on an incredible but often overlooked formation. Oh yeah, and it's also in the sun all day.

Climbed this, more or less, yesterday. Busy place! There were at least 3 parties on Spiral Route, another party climbing side by side with us via variations and sharing belays, and eventually pulling ahead of us, and at least one other party on a route on the lower wall.

The first 5.9 pitch was great fun. Then, as many before us, we got a bit lost in the area of the mythical "5.6 chimney". I followed the party just ahead of us and did a 20' or so spooky no gear traverse left from the ridge onto the west face then up dual corners and back right to the stance on the ridge below the second 5.9 pitch (the right angling orange face). This devious pitch felt like 8s.

Thought the 2nd 5.9 pitch was quite hard at the top.

Does anyone know about the arete on the left side of this face? It looks wild with good holds but perhaps little gear.

There is now a rap from just west of the summit--long 11mm rope and other slings around a huge block. If you want to back this up with new webbing, bring about 20'. There is also a misleading anchor at the bottom of the loose gully that dumps onto the W Face. A pin and a slung chockstone. We made the mistake of rapping to and from there. It's almost impossible not to knock rocks off with the ropes falling into the gully. It may be possible to rap from the top directly to the first bolts about 20' climber's right of the bottom of the gully. In any case, it's a good idea to toss your ropes in that direction to keep them out of the gully. On a lower rappel we pulled off a large 1.5' block as we pulled our rope down. Don't hang out on the ground below the last rappel!

Another question: Does it make sense to avoid the first two easy pitches of the Spiral Route by hiking to the bottom of the raps and then onto the ridge?

Stellar climb. Be prepared to route find to stay on the path of least resistance. I got confused by the copious beta provided here and just went where it looked best.

Descent : You need two ropes to do the new bolted rappels. We did one rap into the notch, a 1/4 rope length of scrambling to get on the ledge with the new bolts and then 3 rappels to the ground. The last rap has a nasty knot eating notch, so you will want to position your knot below that after you rappel over it.

Thanks to who ever put in the bolts. Hopefully, this will prevent the epic rappels recorded by the dazzling array of old slings and tat up there.

This is a good route with a third pitch that is as good as it gets. I do believe that the "5.6 chimney" is a myth. Around that west side on the 5th pitch or so I encountered many (3 or 4) steep dihedrals that all seem to peter out offering little in the way of good gear. The rock around that side is also a little mungy and there is some not-so-safe fall potential. If you rap down from the notch into the obvious weakness you will find much tat to rap from. When rapping, stay left (when facing the rock) of that weakness to find the new rap bolts.

Did this route today, I have to say it rivals any Route in the park at the grade, great gear and exposure. We did it in 4 pitches, with minimal rope drag. Two #3 Camalots are nice on the second pitch if you don't like running it out a little. One note on the the rappels, stay out of the gully where the blue webbing is slung around a boulder, the bolts are down and right from here (as you face the rock). Rap bolts are bomber, 3 and out. Thanks CMS for anchors.

Finding the bolted raps was still a bit difficult despite all of this beta. Some more info that might help: As you are scrambling down the gully you will see a gear anchor that consists of a pin, stopper, and some slung slings at the point where the gully drops off into the void. To reach the bolted raps, the ledge that needs to be traversed is about ten feet directly above this shoddy gear anchor (See Anonymous Coward, June 2002). Traverse this ledge on the left side (as you are looking down the gully). Around the corner on this ledge you will see a large boilerplate/fin. The bolted anchors are on the top of that. From there, the raps are obvious. You cannot see the rap achors when you are in the gully.

We got off route after pitch 3, and for the final pitch I ended up climbing (sometimes straddling) the arete. I found a couple of old pins, but otherwise I have seen no reference to climbing the arete. However it was an awesome pitch - the climbing about 5.5 and rock quality was excellent - just FYI.