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Arrowhead

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Arrowhead

Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Dec 22, 2001
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Elevation: 12,642 feet
Latitude: 40.2683  Longitude: -105.6500 
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BETA PHOTO: S Face (right) on 9/3/01


Description 

Arrowhead is the name given to a collection of spires in the Spearhead Cirque attached to McHenry's via its northeast ridge, directly above Black Lake. Up until a few years ago not many routes had been put up here, probably due to the long approach and relatively short climbs (most are 4 to 5 pitches in length). Recently, however, the abundance of clean, aesthetic lines compacted into a relatively small area has drawn droves of first-ascentionists looking for virgin rock in an otherwise mostly climbed-out Park. The rock here is quality granite, and if the entire formation were picked up and moved to a place like Lumpy Ridge there would already be 100 named routes on it.


Getting There 

To get there, park or take the shuttle to the Glacier Gorge lot and follow the trail that goes to Black Lake via Mills Lake. Once at the lake, skirt around the right side and scramble up directly underneath the long prominent fracture which leads straight upslope to the base of Arrowhead. Once at the beginning of the fracture, work your way diagonally left up grassy ledges until you're up in the cirque near the base of the rock. From here, you can either head up and left to access routes along the ridge connecting Arrowhead to McHenry's, or scramble up and right for the routes above Black Lake. You can also head up the left side of Black Lake as if you're going to Spearhead, but it's farther and takes more time. For routes on the far right side of Arrowhead, bushwack up and right from Black Lake.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Arrowhead:
East Face/Arrowhead   5.4     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   
Warhead   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   
Arrowplane   5.11a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   
Airhead   5.11d     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600 feet   
Ithaca   5.12a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade IV   
Browse More Classics in Arrowhead

Featured Route For Arrowhead
Nate A onsighting the crux pitch. 7-2-05. <br /><br />I will go so far as to say this is one of the finest pitches I've done in the Park.

Airhead 5.11d  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Arrowhead
It's hard to believe that Airhead, which climbs the plumb line dihedral and crack system up the center of Arrowhead's south face, isn't an RMNP mega-classic. Not only is the line itself the most obvious directissima on the wall, but the climbing is really good and the crux pitch is one of the gems of the Park. After approaching via any of the methods listed for Arrowhead, begin climbing from the highest of a series of ledges below the obvious, ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Arrowhead Slideshow Add Photo
From left to right: McHenry's, Arrowhead, and Thatchtop.

BETA PHOTO: From left to right: McHenry's, Arrowhead, and That...

S face of Arrowhead, seen from Dog Star on McHenry's Peak.  Warhead climbs the sunlit face R of the jagged shadow line.

BETA PHOTO: S face of Arrowhead, seen from Dog Star on McHenry...

Arrowhead East Face on 3/3/05

BETA PHOTO: Arrowhead East Face on 3/3/05

Arrowhead from the top of the valley on the approach to McHenry's Notch Coloir

Arrowhead from the top of the valley on the approa...

Arrowhead

Arrowhead


Comments on Arrowhead Add Comment
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By L. Hamilton
Nov 5, 2004

Yep, that's McHenrys at left and Arrowhead in the middle. The right-hand "mountain" in Ernie's photo is actually two mountains, I believe -- a low ridge descending from Thatchtop, at far right; and the higher, snow-streaked summit behind it, which is Powell Peak (see Powell Peak and Snark descriptions for photos of the E face of Powell).

By Josh Janes
Administrator
Aug 29, 2008

The two raps from the low point on the McHenry's-Arrowhead saddle can be done with a single 70m rope (despite the recommendations for having two 60m ropes in the descriptions for Ithaca, Airhead, and Arrowplane) and a little bit of very easy down climbing after the second rappel.