The Cathedral Wall (with the tops of some of the C...
Description
Located in Loch Vale, Cathedral Wall towers over its western end. You can't miss it on the walk into Sky Pond and the Cathedral Spires. More than likely, the sun is rising as you approach, turning the whole wall into a glorious sheet of orange. There are perhaps a dozen routes that climb either the main or second buttress. They all top out in the same vicinity, with the descent being down the backside to the Andrews Glacier trail. This descent is far more complicated than is let on to in Rossiter's guide. Watch out for being cliffed out. There were few cairns in the summer of 2001. Carefully find a gully to downclimb, more or less directly below, but slightly left of where the route tops out. You can't see it until you are right on top of it. Many of the routes are described as serious, but good moderate climbing is to be had as well. Definately worth adding an ascent of this wall to your repertoire.
Getting There
From the Glacier Gorge parking area, follow the trail to Sky Pond. Access to wall is gained by traversing slopes of talus, just after the Andrews Glacier trail junction, but before you climb up to the waterfall on the Sky Pond trail.
Although we did this a couple years ago it has only seen a couple of ascents. Brent and I established this route ground up in the winter of 1998. We aided the second pitch and were forced off the wall after 5 pitches, due to a blizzard during the night spent in our portaledge. I later rapped the headwall at the top to scope a line and clean off some loose blocks (I did not place any bolts on rap as stated in the 2003 AAJ, this was placed on lea...[more]
On about 1 1/2 hours' sleep, I picked up my budy Jon and we headed up to the Park to hit the Petite Grepon. Beautiful hike in and the Cathedral Spires are AWESOME!
The climb was equally beautiful. You can reach the 1st Bench with a 60 meter, and, if you belay higher up in the chimney (25 ft, +or-) for the 2nd pitch, you can string 2 and 3 together, giving the leader an interesting chimney/ 5.7 crack to reach the second bench.
After the next chimney pitch, The climb gets verticle, beginning the 'real deal'. Steller climbing! Up higher, I don't know what the Gillette guide meant by 'sparse pro' on the upper 5.7 'meandering' east face pitch; I found plenty. The Pizza pan ledge at the end of that pitch reminded me of the Yellow Spur's arete belay. Very cool! (Get comfy.)
The final 5.6 summit pitch needs attention, as there really ISN'T good pro for THAT one. It's all there, however, and the summit is amazing!! If there's no incoming weather, definitely spend a little 'alone time' there before pulling up the slack. :)
PSIf you DID only have 1 1/2 hour's sleep, which is not unusual for an alpine start like the Petite, just grin and bear it on the descent (and the hike out). Both take a while. I recommend the east face descent into the gully and back onto the face. Watch for ropes sticking on the upper repels. Also, rock fall is very possible (probable?), so be cautious. But that's all part of climbing, so really doesn't merit mentioning, generally. Whatever. ENJOY IT!
I found an approach shoe at the base of the Cathedral Wall (RMNP) today (5/29/06) -- the heel loop clip-in deal was blown-out, so I suspect it fell from high on the wall and someone had a bummer walk out. Drop me an email if it's yours and I'll get it to you. Kelly
Cathedral Wall
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