Josh Wharton leading the crux first pitch. Photo ...
Description
Pitch 1: Start off the ledge system. Start by liebacking up a short flake wedged in a crack. Reach up and place gear in another flake above. Then climb up and right onto a good ledge at the base of the corner proper. Climb the crack in the corner. The left hand wall is lined with an interesting calacite. Power up this corner using stemming and handjams. When the corner arches left, step out right on a large foot hold. Climb the 8 foot finger crack through perfect granite. You will then gain a rest in an alcove. Pass a roof either on the left or via a hand traverse above the roof. Climb the golden corner above passing 1 protection bolt. Belay at 2 bolts on a good ledge. 5.11d, 100ft.
Pitch 2: The Arete crack. Step left and begin climbing the obvious crack just right of the edge of the buttress. A couple of steep finger locks will get you to the beautiful hand crack. Climb the Hand crack as it gets wider, passing a couple of solid flakes in the crack. When you reach the roof surmount it on the left. Belay at 2 good bolts on a very nice ledge. 5.9+, 75ft.
Pitch 3: Step right and climb the inside, left-facing corner. Stemming and unique body postions will get you up the pitch. Belay on a HUGE ledge from 2 bolts in the next section of cliff. 5.9, 80ft.
Pitch 4: Lieback up the obvious line left of the anchor. There are several key rests. Nearing the top of the crack, step left onto a stance. Be sure to place gear high before stepping left. Climb the face above the stance, aiming for a horizontal crack. Place gear in the horizontal, then climb right and pull onto a ledge. One more short, bouldery move puts you on the final big ledge. Belay from 2 bolts. 5.10, 75ft.
A 10 foot scramble leads to the summit.
Location
The route is located on the first major buttress you come to. The route climbs the left side of the Buttress. To Reach the start do some exposed scrambling up grassy ledges, with a final bouldery move to gain the large starting ledge.
Protection
RPs: 1 set. 1X green Alien. 2X Yellow Alien. 2X Red Alien. 2X #0.75 Camalot. 1 each #1 to #3 Camalots. Optional #4 Camalot.
The name of this route, like its neighbor " Noth'n but a good time" comes from the songs of the same titles by the 1980's hair band Poison. Yes I like them, yes you can laugh.
But the name has taken on another meaning to me as 2009 has been such a terrible year for the loss of great climbers.
I want to raise a glass for: Jonny Copp Micah Dash Wade Johnson Bruce Hildebrand John Bachar Craig Luebben
RSS Feed
Slideshow
