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The Tan Buttress's
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Fallen Angel 
Goat Food 
Musafar's Home Cookin' 
Noth'N But a Good Time 

Musafar's Home Cookin' 

5.9

   

FA: D. Haller, S. Finkelstein, B. Collett
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III
Views: 194 page views

Submitted By: Ben Collett on Aug 2, 2009


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Seth on Pitch 2. The pitch ends on the nice ledge ...


Description 

This route goes up the flying buttress on the far right of the main section of the Tan Buttresses. The climbing is not quite as good as the buttress looks, but it still is very fun and well protected.

P1. Follow easy and somewhat vegetated crack and groove systems about 120ft up and left to belay on a ledge system on the left side of the flying buttress. This pitch was about 5.7.

P2. Step left around the corner and climb a nice, steep, corner system that follows the arete for about 40ft. Continue up the corner until you hit a pleasant ledge with good gear at 80ft. 5.9.

P3. Follow the obvious corner system that starts from the left side of the ledge to a fun chimney section. Exit the chimney to a ledge system on the right and head up about 15ft to another friendly belay on the arete.

P4. Step a couple feet left from the belay and follow a corner system to crest of the ridge following a wide hands section for a while. Follow the ridge past a really cool bit of face climbing and continue up the ridge past a steep step with a wide section past some large blocks. This is probably the best pitch on the route. 140ft. 5.9.

P5. Continue up the ridge on easy ground until you feel happy unroping and scrambling to the top of the buttress.


Location 

Descend past Nuthin' But a Good Time and Goat Food, following the ledge system to the end of the buttress. Start on the right side of the front of the flying buttress.


Protection 

Standard rack. We did have a #5 C4 which was nice for P4.



Photos of Musafar's Home Cookin' Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 4. The crux of Goat Food is the shaded corner on the left side of the picture.<br />Photo: Dan Gambino.

Pitch 4. The crux of Goat Food is the shaded corne...

Doug on the chimney on the 3rd pitch. From here, climb onto the ledge on the right traverse around 15ft right and up to a belay near the crest of the ridge.<br />Photo: Dan Gambino.

Doug on the chimney on the 3rd pitch. From here, c...

View of the flying buttress.

BETA PHOTO: View of the flying buttress.

Starting the first pitch.

Starting the first pitch.


Comments on Musafar's Home Cookin' Add Comment
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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Aug 19, 2009

This is an extremely eye catching line.

Good stuff boys!looking forward to climbing it!

josh