BETA PHOTO: I can't remember how many bolts. Hard after the xe...
Description
This could be a direct start for Espresso. A nice crack up to a line of bolts past some big xenoliths. 5.11+ is what we remember. The first attempts were initiated by Kirk Miller and Rusty Kirkpatrick about 1989. Noel Childs and Gerry Rock must have been involved, too. Strappo Hughes was first to finish the pitch in double-boots on a winter attempt.
Mello approach: Use the Summit Lake gullies both in and out. Axe can be nice of snowfield.
Best descent is to clean the anchor and climb up the ledge toward Rusty Dagger. Classic walk off on ledge (third class).
Location
This is the low point of the main wall, an apron below the big traverse ledge that starts Espresso. I remember a giant top rope was set up from the ledge once to work the route.
Protection
Bring a Manure Pile Buttress-sized rack and extra lockers for first bolt or two. Maybe some tricks like slings for chickenheads or hooks.
The Black Wall
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