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Bad Finger Couloir, The 
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The Bad Finger Couloir 

Steep Snow

   

FA: not sure
Type: Snow, Alpine
Length: 4 pitches, 1000 feet
Season: spring/ early summer
Views: 196 page views

Submitted By: Jason Kaplan on Jun 3, 2008


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After the descent.


Description 

Super aesthetic couloir lookers right of Goldfinger. This is a well-known snow climb apparently published in Roach's 13er book, I only know it as a descent however. Going down the crux was getting over the cornice and into the line then crossing the 2 foot deep by 2 foot wide runnel numerous times as the couloir is pretty narrow for its entire length. I am guessing it clocks in around 55 degrees.

Good timing is imperative on this one as too early going down is dangerous, too late you see why the runnel is there and it's scary.


Location 

West Northwest of the Goldfinger.


Protection 

The usual I would imagine, for going down we used a 60m for getting over the cornice, and some webbing and what not for an equalized, double dead man on some big boulders.



Add Photo Photos of The Bad Finger Couloir
Getting off the ropes and into the commitment!

Getting off the ropes and into the commitment!

Reaping the rewards of the exposed entrance. Mind the runnel!

Reaping the rewards of the exposed entrance. Mind ...

The exposure was crazy!

The exposure was crazy!

Nathan at the crux, he didn't manage the runnel very well and....

Nathan at the crux, he didn't manage the runnel ve...

He managed a couple more turns before his tail got sucked into the runnel by the raging river of slough running through it.

He managed a couple more turns before his tail got...

Taking the fast way down! (he stopped shortly after this shot, but it could have been extremely bad.

Taking the fast way down! (he stopped shortly afte...

Nathan reaping the rewards through the bottom!

Nathan reaping the rewards through the bottom!

Entrance/ exit beta also shows the crux.

Entrance/ exit beta also shows the crux.