Eric Johnson pulling the roof on P3. Splitter, fr...
Description
This is the obvious crack system just left of Good Evans. We did this in 1990, wrote it up in the old loose-leaf guidebook at the Bucksnort, but the guidebook was since stolen.
P2) From the belay stance, continue straight up the Rappel Route about 80 feet past two sections of 5.10/5.10+ lieback followed by a 5.11- undercling. Belay just left of the obvious splitter crack that begins here and extends all the way to the top of the wall.
P3) Move right on 5.11b/c face moves to the incipient crack and then move up (5.11c) past a couple of small roofs. The crack widens from fingers to hands and then to hands and fists. Belay at the stance in the crack.
P4) Continue up the crack (5.9 - 5.10) past the large roof on your right to a stance in the crack. Nearly every placement on this pitch is a number 3 to 4 Camalot size.
P5) Follow the crack for a short easy pitch to the top.
Protection
Doubles to 4", (triple on the 2") plus a 4.5" cam.
This is a nice alpine outing that doesn't seem to get done very much judging by the super sharp, clean cracks. Expect a little loose rock here and there, but overall the quality is good. Pitch 1 & 2 combine for a great long 5.11 pitch with ~20 ft of simul climbing. P3 is relatively short, ~ 80 ft, but it takes a lot of cams 1.5" - 4.5", double 2.5" - 4". P4 & 5 also combine easily into one 5.10- pitch. Double ropes are nice to have as you could practically TR the dicey traverse. Bring a few extra units for the belays on P2 (mid-range) & P3 (4").
Just did this again yesterday with Tom Dickey. The flake that you need to pull on at the crux is so sharp that I cut my fingers pretty badly this go round. I would definitely suggest taping your fingers at the first and third joints.
Great Route! Couple notes: rack wise bring one blue Metolius/red C3, doubles from #0.4- #4. You could tripple up on 3s, but I didn't see any reason to.
As for the belay on top of the crux pitch, my #4 didn't fit the crack, but there is a nice ledge out left with a bolt that you can equalize with some small pieces. Get on it!
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