2nd Apron Right Side 

This climb has good rock and position, but is more of 5.4 than a 5.7. We took too much gear, mostly placed Aliens, nuts and a big 3-4 Camalot with not much needed in between. At the top, we did a fun hand traverse under a roof right along the right edge that then turned into pretty fun exposed slab for 15 feet to a great roof. By doing these couple moves we made it 5.7. Really fun though. Oh, we got to the pay booth at 7 am and were charged $10- so they are there earlier than 7:45........

I'd agree this isn't 5.7 - probably 5.5 is a reasonable rating. I would also agree that Aliens and lots of stoppers protect this well - I never would have needed the larger cams I brought, maybe bring a 1 and 2 Camalot but nothing bigger.

The rock quality is a little suspect in places. Lots of hollow rock, loose flakes, and rocks on ledges everywhere. Be careful what you pull on and more importantly where you place gear, and be careful if someone is climbing under you.

Thanks for drawing the topo, Leo. Looks like I did a different line, which basically followed the very prominent dihedral system to the right of the right side route (I thought the right side route was the center route). That may explain why I never found a move of 5.7 and was climbing through a few very large loose flakes.

Yeah, I was off the line too! the pic helps - thanks [Leo]! There is another question mark shaped crack just left of the right side line that confused me into this route. Next time I'll get on route. The right line described by Leo actually jived quite well with the climbing, except for the grade. A fixed sling and some other climbing trash (tape, drink cap) led me to believe I was on route. If you do follow the big corner, it's fun and easy and there are some convoluted boulder problems at the top.

Absolutely awesome, stellar, spectacular climb and, on a clear Saturday morning, we had the entire area to ourselves. Routefinding was no problem, thanks to Leo's posted picture. Protection was adequate, although some of the easier sections felt slightly runout. There were only a few moves that felt 5.7. Not to be missed: about 400 ft. up, very near the right edge of the face, there was a wonderful traverse left on good holds and great gear. Delicious. We did the route in three long (200 ft.) pitches, with an additional 50 ft. of 5.4 to the big ledge at the top. Walkoff to the left was no problem, following a grassy ledge. There's still a fair amount of snow at the base. mike.

Terrific route, and a very helpful picture. Many lines are possible here; this was ours: P1 goes to below the "M," on the right side. P2 heads right and stops at the top of a 40 foot or so R facing dihedral. P3 heads L and makes the big, obvious traverse and anchors perhaps 20 feet above this mini roof. P4 stretches it out 195' and ends at a huge rock garden. You are basically done. "Pitch 5" is easy scrambling up, about 140 feet.

All pitches are well over 100 feet. Some flaring cracks, some mossy stuff, but overall good pro.

We used from 00 TCU to #4 Camalot; small tricams; double sets of med - big stoppers. Would leave the #4 behind next time.

Stunning.

This really defines choose your own adventure climbing. Just start climbing, and follow whatever features tickle your fancy. There are many vertical, horizontal, and diagonal cracks. Overall, the rock is very solid and the pro is more than sufficient. I thought it was 5.5-5.6 and does not deserve an "s" rating. Goood fun.

My partner and I were trying to climb the center route but ended up on I think 3 different routes. We started out below a fixed L.A. (I think) to the right of the center 5.7 route but to the left of the right 5.7 route (I [believe] it was marked in red on the pic.) Anyway, climbed to the piton with no gear, pulled the old sling and used my own (for the meanwhile), and continued over the roof to the right slightly, it seemed pretty tricky for 5.7 (we felt it was about 5.9 due to the slabby nature and no hand holds) we then found [ourselves] on the right 5.7 route for the next [pitch and] a half. Then, we worked over slightly left up a funky crackless crack like feature up to a roof for a slightly hanging belay. After this we worked over the roof by means of a hand to fist sized crack, and [straight] up a bit further until working into the 5.5 dihedral on the right. we belayed until running out of rope then proceded to simultaneously climb to the top. The route was great, but I wish I had a picture at the start of the route so I wasn't so off line. I also wish I had pics of the route, but oh well. Hope this information helps someone. What is that "red marked" route on the pic with the fixed pin? Does anyone know?

In answer to your question, the red lines I drew in were wanderings we took trying to figure out where we wanted to climb on various attempts. Allen got to that pin and backed off due to the holdless nature of the route. Perhaps, it was his sling. The other red line I backed off as I decided it was too risky with how far along my wife was at that time. Sorry if it was not obvious from the topo.

We climbed this route on 8-24-05 in near-perfect conditions. There are all kinds of variations all over the face. There is heavy lichen in some places, but overall the rock quality is excellent. If you stick to the most featured lines of least resistance, it probably goes at about 5.5 and is easily protected with small to medium gear (up to about 2"). You can find 5.7 to 5.8 moves however and I chose to run it out quite a bit over some of the easier terrain.

We did it in four pitches all over 175 feet (simulclimbed 10 feet or so on P2) with 100 feet of scrambling to the top after P4.

It had snowed on 8-13-05 and many of the lower, more wind protected ledges were still snow covered. The first belay would have made for very cold and wet feet in rock shoes so I chose a different, more sloping ledge slightly to the west...a little less comfortable, but dry.

A stellar climb in a supreme alpine setting...definitely 3 stars ***.

Minor detail: the flake shown in AC's photo of Mike is actually 1 crack L of where we went. Also, there weren't any slings or gear in situ when we did it.

Went for a repeat today. I was the AC July 30 2005, this time I started on route, one crack right for the flake in the pic, found someone left a 4 BD stopper. I thought it was fixed, but my partner pulled it. Weather has shut me down 2 times now up higher on the route, this time it was fog, hail, and sprinkles of rain. I took the 5.5 for about 40 feet while it stormed on me then wandered back left when it let up. I feel cheated once again, I guess I will have to get an earlier start on this one for now on. I think I am going to try to climb this once a year, but we'll see once my skillz progress.

This route is slabby, and in places run-out. There are a few trickier moves up thin grooves and lay-backs with far-enough pro that a 5.4 leader would be terrified. So, while I agree with Shad that this is not sustained 5.7, make sure you can lead 5.7 granite before heading up this climb. 5 pitches, no need for cams above #1, bring a lot of small cams, Aliens, and medium nuts.

I personally used a #2 Camalot quite a bit, even made use of my 3 and 4, I believe. The route has a lot of options, and I feel if you were in over your head, you could get on the 5.5 (although it is junk). Also, I have done it in 3 pitches always simultanious-climbing the last 200 or so feet; however, I am always on the 5.5 for the last 200 feet, so far, as well.

This is one of those "climb anywhere" routes. Easily done in 3 pitches with a 70m rope.

Climbed this route or a rough approximation of it today; 8/24/08, a really awesome and fun climb, there was a decent bit of snow and ice in places on the first pitch thanks to a recent storm, but other than that I thought the conditions were great. We climbed this in 4 pitches running out a 70 meter rope almost to the end on each pitch; I figured maybe 850 feet of roped climbing all in all. I brought a moderate rack small C3s through a #4 Camalot with some bigger hexes and found than other than setting up a few belays I hardly used the bigger pieces, maybe just the route we took. Rock quality was fairly good; stay out of the tempting but grungy dihedral/left-facing corner on the far right; it doesn't get much sun and is mossy/icy/chossy. I thought the pro was pretty good as well; def. be comfortable with decent runouts on 5.7/5.8-ish slabby terrain though, this is kinda one of those "climb anywhere" routes to a degree, assuming your comfortable with the runouts and creative with gear. Was also very surprised to find an ancient webbing rat's nest about 1/2 way up our line, at a point I surely thought we were off route haha....
Highly Reccomended Climb; this is a wicked fun route on a classic 14er nonetheless!!