From Blaine Basin, a glance at the north face of Mount Sneffels will reveal a couloir bisecting the right hand side of the face. Climb up the couloir for over 1000 feet. It averages 40 degrees, but steepens to 50 degrees where the couloir necks down a bit, about half way up. At the halfway point, the couloir splits at a small rock pillar. Take the dogleg to the left. At the top of the couloir, either traverse east to connect to the final few feet of the normal route (yucky) or go straight up a short band of rocks and come out directly onto the summer (better). A rope may be handy for this section, as a slip could have dire consequences, but the climbing is not too hard.
Use Blaine Basin/Blue Lakes trailhead on East Dallas Creek Rd for an approach after spring-melt off. Usually this is sometime in May. Alternatively, use Yankee Boy Basin as an approach by climbing to Lavender Col and descending into Blaine Basin. Allow two hours for an approach from either trailhead in good conditions.
Use the normal route for a descent to Lavender Col. Either drop back down into Blaine Basin and return to the trailhead, or go down into Yankee Boy Basin and its trailhead.
Do not leave any gear stashed too high in Blaine Basin. The descent from Lavender Col comes into Blaine Basin well below and to the side of the start of the routes on the north face. Don't get stuck having to climb back up just to get stashed gear.
This superb couloir has been a popular Colorado test piece since 1933. It is cool for both climbing and the extreme ski descent. See Rock and Ice number 85 and Dawson's Guide To Colorado's Fourteeners as examples of references. Enjoy.
Protection
Take some ice screws, depending on the time of year. Earlier in the season there will be no ice, only snow. Also include perhaps a very light rack for the headwall just below the summit.
I agree, a great route! I climbed it Labor Day weekend some years ago, and then the crux was pretty much all ice. We took a left at the crux, a narrow chute which did not look fun. Just after we traversed left below the narrow chute, a huge TV-set sized rock came pummeling down it at high speed. This would have spelled disaster had we taken the direct line. A great line, but be careful and try to stay out of the line of fire!
The direct finish up rock, as noted, is super-exposed but quite quite easy technically. Watch again for loose rock.
Some people rappel off the summit into the couloir. I guess it would depend on the conditions. I downclimbed in my ski boots and it was pretty terrifying.
A lot of skiers stash a car as far as they can up Dallas Creek and approach from the Yankee Boy side, which is fewer miles of sloggin', but doesn't let you ascend the couloir first (which is usually a good idea).
A even more classic descent is the Trilogy. Ski the Snake until it doglegs, then boot over the cornice into the West Couloir. Ski that until it doglegs and boot up over the ridge for a few more thousand turns into Dallas Creek. Pretty fun.
thanx man, just a little beta always helps, I would have to see some pictures to understand all these transfers and what not that you describe, as far as just skiing straight down the snake, how is that? what is the crux like? I can ski 50+ hard snow...but just wanna know what to expect. I like the car shuttle Idea, cause I heard its a long approach for a direct climb, so as far a rap off the summit, what kind a pro is there? slings?what is it, like class 4 to summit from the top of the couloir?
I appreciate the info
no thanks to ac, I guess he's got it all figured out.....
By jfox From: Blackhawk, CO Jun 16, 2008 rating: Mod. Snow PG13
Climbed this on 6/14/2008. Not sure by which route I exited the couloir by, but near the top of the snow climbing, I turned SW and climbed 60+ degree snow into a little notch below a cornice. I got some good sticks with my Cobra (maybe AI3) where the snow turned to vert ice at the cornice. Then I climbed maybe a 5.5 finger crack up the SW side just below the summit for 15', no rope/pro necessary. The rest of our team came up by the rock on the N. Face but said it wasn't anything above 4th class. We all brought ropes, harnesses and pro, but didn't use them.
Regarding the direct finish that Roach calls 5.6 - it seems to me that you would have to do something pretty contrived and really go out of your way to find much 5.6. The way we went (which seemed like the logical direct finish from the top of the couloir) was no more than 4th class. What we did looks like what is pictured in Julian Smith's photo above http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/alpine_rock/mount_>>>>>
RSS Feed
