Looking down from the belay on the spire in the bi...
Description
Babcock Peak (and its three sub peaks) separates Tomahawk Basin from Boren Creek Basin on the West side of the La Platas. Babcock Peak is a difficult climb and a rope and gear is recommended on some routes. This is in the San Juans, so loose rock is mandatory.
Getting There
Your can get to Babcock Peak either by driving up Tomahawk basin, parking at the mine and hiking to the end of the basin where you will find gullies leading to the top (unconfirmed). Or, drive up Boren Creek on an old mining road (take a left immediately after you cross Boren Creek). The road is horrible, so drive until you come to a small creek crossing the road and park there, walk the road until you reach the basin. 1-2 hours approach time.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Babcock Peak:
You will want to find a good way up the wall to your left. Once you reach the notch, we found it easiest to go up to the left of the prominent chimney. The chimney might be a good alternative, but it was iced up when we climbed it in late May. We free-soloed the way up but down climbed while being roped in for the descent do to loose rock. With good route finding, you should be able to find a way up without exceeding 5.3 or so. Again, watch for l...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
For the Boren Creek approach, the road is currently drivable for ATVs up to the mine at the end, but there's a large downed tree about half way up the road that would be difficult to get by even in a small vehicle, but probably just barely doable in a narrow vehicle without sliding into the bushes. Regardless, the lower switchbacks are mostly 3 point turns even in a Jeep, and the first one is interesting coming down, quite fun sliding sidways on loose rock on a tight, off kilter switchback before even being able to start the 3 point turn. And if you have street oriented tires, don't be surprised if you get a flat.
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