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North Cheyenne Canyon 
Pike's Peak 
Rampart Park 
Stanley Canyon Ice 
Water Fall Loop Trail (sec. 16) 

Colorado Springs & vicinity 


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Elevation: 6,600'
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 25, 2006

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Looking down Hully.

Description 

Okay, this is going to tickle a few of you out there to say "what the...." This area has been notoriously tight in coughing up information on rock and/or ice. Once, there was even a Colorado Springs website which hosted a bit of information on ice. Well, some of it has been added to the database. Some is already in guidebooks such as Cameron Burns' delightful Colorado Ice Climber's Guide, Colorado Springs Area p. 217-220. So, everyone is secretive about the ice, but as my youngest child is taught in preschool, "let's share."

Within C. Burn's guide are:

Silver Cascades, WI2, 2p.
Green Mountain Falls, WI1-2
Gillette Falls, WI2-5, check out access issues 1st.

There likely is more ice in the Cheyenne Canyon drainage with the right conditions.

Higher up:

Blind Assumption, 300-1000'
The Ole 6, 4p, 450'
Total Abandon, 3p, 400'
Y Couloir, 2000' vertical

North Cheyenne Canyon:

The Phantom, 80'

Buried within our database is even two comments one
then and two about Helen Hunt Falls, and now Saint Mary’s Falls.


Getting There 

Colorado Springs is located on the Front Range, about 70 miles south of Denver. From there, you'll need to look at each of the specific subareas.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Colorado Springs & vicinity:
Y Couloir        Alpine, 2000 feet   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
Hully Gully   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches   North Cheyenne Canyon
Blind Assumption   WI5 M5     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400 feet   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
Total Abandon   WI4+ M6     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
Browse More Classics in Colorado Springs & vicinity

Featured Route For Colorado Springs & vicinity
The Corinthian Column is on the left.

Total Abandon WI4+ M6  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : North Face of Pike's Peak
Total Abandon is a stellar route in an awesome setting. It is the gully/chimney system that is located on the right side of the Corinthian Column on Pike's Peak's north face. With deluxe access from the Hero Rock Traverse, what more could you ask for? OK. How about 300 to 1000 feet of mixed climbing?From 13,000 feet on the troll road (yuck, I hate paying trolls), park at the last major curve before the road heads up to the summit. Cross the road and head east until you can drop off into the v...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Comments on Colorado Springs & vicinity Add Comment
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By Joshua Balke
From: Colorado Springs
Jan 29, 2007

Though I didn't have problems when I went to Gillette, I was warned of angry land owners deflating tires. The property accessed across is I believed owned by Colorado Springs water. I would suggest checking with the FS and CO Spgs before going to ensure you have a leg to stand on before going. If anyone can confirm access issues, it would be appreciated.

By Jamie Pierce
Oct 6, 2009

Gillette Falls and its approach reside on private property that belong to Cripple Creek Water District and a landowner that doesn't want folks crossing his land, and it's his right to keep folks off. If conditions allow, find another way to gain access to these falls, but find out what is best prior to the long approach.

By ryanf
From: colorado springs
Jan 4, 2013

Helen Hunt/ S. Cascades is in for now. The cold temps have set up the ice enough to climb. It's a little wet in spots, and I've seen it thicker in years, but all in all, it is a fun solo at lunch time.