Okay, this is going to tickle a few of you out there to say "what the...." This area has been notoriously tight in coughing up information on rock and/or ice. Once, there was even a Colorado Springs website which hosted a bit of information on ice. Well, some of it has been added to the database. Some is already in guidebooks such as Cameron Burns' delightful Colorado Ice Climber's Guide, Colorado Springs Area p. 217-220. So, everyone is secretive about the ice, but as my youngest child is taught in preschool, "let's share."
Within C. Burn's guide are:
Silver Cascades, WI2, 2p. Green Mountain Falls, WI1-2 Gillette Falls, WI2-5, check out access issues 1st.
There likely is more ice in the Cheyenne Canyon drainage with the right conditions.
Total Abandon is a stellar route in an awesome setting. It is the gully/chimney system that is located on the right side of the Corinthian Column on Pike's Peak's north face. With deluxe access from the Hero Rock Traverse, what more could you ask for? OK. How about 300 to 1000 feet of mixed climbing?From 13,000 feet on the troll road (yuck, I hate paying trolls), park at the last major curve before the road heads up to the summit. Cross the road and head east until you can drop off into the v...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Though I didn't have problems when I went to Gillette, I was warned of angry land owners deflating tires. The property accessed across is I believed owned by Colorado Springs water. I would suggest checking with the FS and CO Spgs before going to ensure you have a leg to stand on before going. If anyone can confirm access issues, it would be appreciated.
Gillette Falls and its approach reside on private property that belong to Cripple Creek Water District and a landowner that doesn't want folks crossing his land, and it's his right to keep folks off. If conditions allow, find another way to gain access to these falls, but find out what is best prior to the long approach.
Helen Hunt/ S. Cascades is in for now. The cold temps have set up the ice enough to climb. It's a little wet in spots, and I've seen it thicker in years, but all in all, it is a fun solo at lunch time.