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Colorado route grades, accurate?
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By Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Apr 29, 2014
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA I was working on - don't see that every day...
slim wrote:
do you mean 11b, or are you talking about the breshears finger crack pitch, which i would agree is 11d? i think there is a lot of variation, not only between states and crags, but also within crags themselves. stich's formula is a pretty good start.


If you didn't do the Breshears crack start, you didn't really do Wunches right?? ;)

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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Apr 29, 2014
slim wrote:
do you mean 11b, or are you talking about the breshears finger crack pitch, which i would agree is 11d?

If you didn't free the slab you didn't free the route :|

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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 29, 2014
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord
reboot wrote:
If you didn't free the slab you didn't free the route :|

he has a point

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By slim
Administrator
Apr 29, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
you all beat me to it (slab part) ! dammit! ironically, i have done so little crack climbing this last year or 2 that the slab would probably be the least of my problems :(

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By Ryan Watts
From Bishop, CA
Apr 29, 2014
Flatirons
Chick on Crack wrote:
Are Colorado route grades accurate? That question was the gist of this post. Thanks for some solid and respectful advice. The thread is turning into ego moshing now...


Accurate? What does that even mean?

Colorado route grades in my (admittedly limited) experience are *consistent* at the older/classic areas like Lumpy, Eldo, etc. That is, Eldo 5.9 seems like Eldo 5.9. Lumpy 5.9 seems like Lumpy 5.9. Eldo 5.9 is not the same as Lumpy 5.9 (different style), but within an area the grades usually make sense.

Some newer areas, e.g. Boulder Canyon, seemed more inconsistent in their ratings. Boulder Canyon 5.9 could be borderline 4th class or some real deal hardman shit. As was mentioned earlier, look at when it was put up, the style (trad or sport), and who put it up.

5.9+ at castle rock = bring your big boy panties
5.9+ at sport park = bring your buddy from the gym who never climbed outside before
layton kor 5.9+ = bring your big boy panties, and probably an extra pair

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By Trycycle
Apr 29, 2014
Ya'll whine about gym grades for climbs with a 10 week life cycle and you can't even agree on grades for routes with decades of ascents.

Who cares.

The route is as hard as it is. Call it whatever you want.

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By Paul Pellissier
From Nottingham, New Hampshire
Apr 29, 2014
Getting Showered late in the season on the large pillar at the Pool
^^^ agreed
Although I have to say gym grades are critical for my training regime and really help me monitor my progression as a climber. Almost as critical a my growing pile of soiled big boy panties!

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By Ryan Watts
From Bishop, CA
Apr 29, 2014
Flatirons
Paul Pellissier wrote:
^^^ agreed Although I have to say gym grades are critical for my training regime and really help me monitor my progression as a climber. Almost as critical a my growing pile of soiled big boy panties!


The panty scale is where it's at.

Similar to the Bridwell system for aid climbs

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By ViperScale
May 1, 2014
If you have more than 1 bolt every 60ft you are being soft.

Or if your bolts are protecting a deck into the ledge you know when you are belaying from one you kinda need 30ft than 60ft than 120ft anchors etc, you need the thrill of a possible ledge deck so you aren't to soft on the clips.

But than that is NC climbing ethics.

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