do you mean 11b, or are you talking about the breshears finger crack pitch, which i would agree is 11d? i think there is a lot of variation, not only between states and crags, but also within crags themselves. stich's formula is a pretty good start.
If you didn't do the Breshears crack start, you didn't really do Wunches right?? ;)
Are Colorado route grades accurate? That question was the gist of this post. Thanks for some solid and respectful advice. The thread is turning into ego moshing now...
Accurate? What does that even mean?
Colorado route grades in my (admittedly limited) experience are *consistent* at the older/classic areas like Lumpy, Eldo, etc. That is, Eldo 5.9 seems like Eldo 5.9. Lumpy 5.9 seems like Lumpy 5.9. Eldo 5.9 is not the same as Lumpy 5.9 (different style), but within an area the grades usually make sense.
Some newer areas, e.g. Boulder Canyon, seemed more inconsistent in their ratings. Boulder Canyon 5.9 could be borderline 4th class or some real deal hardman shit. As was mentioned earlier, look at when it was put up, the style (trad or sport), and who put it up.
5.9+ at castle rock = bring your big boy panties 5.9+ at sport park = bring your buddy from the gym who never climbed outside before layton kor 5.9+ = bring your big boy panties, and probably an extra pair
If you have more than 1 bolt every 60ft you are being soft.
Or if your bolts are protecting a deck into the ledge you know when you are belaying from one you kinda need 30ft than 60ft than 120ft anchors etc, you need the thrill of a possible ledge deck so you aren't to soft on the clips.