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Colorado route grades, accurate?
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Apr 29, 2014
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA...
slim wrote:
do you mean 11b, or are you talking about the breshears finger crack pitch, which i would agree is 11d? i think there is a lot of variation, not only between states and crags, but also within crags themselves. stich's formula is a pretty good start.


If you didn't do the Breshears crack start, you didn't really do Wunches right?? ;)
Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Joined Jun 24, 2006
985 points
Apr 29, 2014
slim wrote:
do you mean 11b, or are you talking about the breshears finger crack pitch, which i would agree is 11d?

If you didn't free the slab you didn't free the route :|
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
143 points
Apr 29, 2014
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
reboot wrote:
If you didn't free the slab you didn't free the route :|

he has a point
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,757 points
Administrator
Apr 29, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
you all beat me to it (slab part) ! dammit! ironically, i have done so little crack climbing this last year or 2 that the slab would probably be the least of my problems :( slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,072 points
Apr 29, 2014
Flatirons
Chick on Crack wrote:
Are Colorado route grades accurate? That question was the gist of this post. Thanks for some solid and respectful advice. The thread is turning into ego moshing now...


Accurate? What does that even mean?

Colorado route grades in my (admittedly limited) experience are *consistent* at the older/classic areas like Lumpy, Eldo, etc. That is, Eldo 5.9 seems like Eldo 5.9. Lumpy 5.9 seems like Lumpy 5.9. Eldo 5.9 is not the same as Lumpy 5.9 (different style), but within an area the grades usually make sense.

Some newer areas, e.g. Boulder Canyon, seemed more inconsistent in their ratings. Boulder Canyon 5.9 could be borderline 4th class or some real deal hardman shit. As was mentioned earlier, look at when it was put up, the style (trad or sport), and who put it up.

5.9+ at castle rock = bring your big boy panties
5.9+ at sport park = bring your buddy from the gym who never climbed outside before
layton kor 5.9+ = bring your big boy panties, and probably an extra pair
Ryan Watts
From Bishop, CA
Joined Apr 15, 2013
49 points
Apr 29, 2014
Ya'll whine about gym grades for climbs with a 10 week life cycle and you can't even agree on grades for routes with decades of ascents.

Who cares.

The route is as hard as it is. Call it whatever you want.
Trycycle
Joined Mar 12, 2014
133 points
Apr 29, 2014
Loving being back on the right coast after a trip ...
^^^ agreed
Although I have to say gym grades are critical for my training regime and really help me monitor my progression as a climber. Almost as critical a my growing pile of soiled big boy panties!
Paul Pellissier
From Nottingham, New Hampshire
Joined Mar 31, 2009
141 points
Apr 29, 2014
Flatirons
Paul Pellissier wrote:
^^^ agreed Although I have to say gym grades are critical for my training regime and really help me monitor my progression as a climber. Almost as critical a my growing pile of soiled big boy panties!


The panty scale is where it's at.

Similar to the Bridwell system for aid climbs
Ryan Watts
From Bishop, CA
Joined Apr 15, 2013
49 points
May 1, 2014
Red Rock
If you have more than 1 bolt every 60ft you are being soft.

Or if your bolts are protecting a deck into the ledge you know when you are belaying from one you kinda need 30ft than 60ft than 120ft anchors etc, you need the thrill of a possible ledge deck so you aren't to soft on the clips.

But than that is NC climbing ethics.
ViperScale
Joined Dec 22, 2013
181 points


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