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Colorado Alpine Rock Conditions Summer 2014
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Aug 10, 2014
Ellingwood ledges still dry as of today. Trickle of negligible water running down the 4th class direct gully on the Needle and dry in the standard gully. Some water across the approach trails. Ryan Marsters
Joined Jan 21, 2011
104 points
Aug 11, 2014
Outdid myself here
Epic day on the Diamond yesterday. The snowfield was a real pain in the ass at zero dark thirty in approach shoes with no ice axe or trekking poles. I would highly recommend yak trax, trekking poles or an ice axe for the approach to the North chimney. Wear it on your pack to Broadway and then leave it clipped to the innumerable tat that's scattered about.

To clarify I don't mean all three, just any one of the aforementioned accoutrements will serve you well
The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Joined Jun 21, 2013
248 points
Aug 14, 2014
Anyone know if there is a lot of snow going up to Sharkstooth? Joe F.
From Colorado Springs
Joined Feb 1, 2008
0 points
Aug 15, 2014
Bocan
Spiral? I'm assuming it's fine, but haha this year you never know. Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Aug 15, 2014
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.
Spiral/Notchtop area is all dry and been quiet the few recent times I've been up there, Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 12, 2001
1,028 points
Aug 15, 2014
selfie
Joe F. wrote:
Anyone know if there is a lot of snow going up to Sharkstooth?



Was up there 2 weeks ago and there was still a fair sized snow field before gaining the talus leading up to the Sharkstooth, don't know if there is a path to the left that avoids the snow or not. Micro spikes would have made for an easy crossing.
Ralph Kolva
From Evergreen, CO
Joined Jun 5, 2006
218 points
Aug 15, 2014
Hey guys,

Heading to Spearhead this weekend...think it will be epic???
Dan Vinson
Joined Dec 1, 2010
0 points
Aug 15, 2014
on belay
Joe F. wrote:
Anyone know if there is a lot of snow going up to Sharkstooth?


Was there 2 days ago. There is snow in only 2 spots, both before the bivy site (on the obvious flat cliff below Sharkstooth). We crossed both without crampons or ice axes, just kicked a few steps with boots. My partner, who was in approach shoes thought that light crampons would have been better.
She noted that it would be a bad slide on the snow slope just before the bivy.

There is water at the bivy. Marmots and mosquitoes are active.
Steve Jones
Joined Jun 6, 2011
122 points
 
Aug 16, 2014
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP...
Scott McMahon wrote:
wow lambs looks pretty decent.


You aren't kidding!

On a serious note, I was wondering if anyone has been up Lambs lately? I attempted Kiener's last year in late August, and as soon as the sun it the top of the slide it just started consistently spewing sizable rocks and ice every half a minute or so. We called it, and I vowed to come back this year. Wellllll...the summer got away from me, but I'm hoping to have a go at it this week maybe?

Thanks!
Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 29, 2009
46 points
Aug 16, 2014
Bocan
It not being black is a great sign that it's pretty great for this time of year. Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Aug 16, 2014
another day in RMNP
Two rocks are sufficient for the approach to North Chimney. Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Joined Mar 11, 2013
85 points
Aug 29, 2014
Right before stepping onto the Emmons Glacier, bel...
Curious about the condition of the Flying Buttress and Pervertical. Friend was on cables yesterday and said things were pretty iced up, and the diamond was super wet. Sagar Gondalia
From Golden
Joined Jun 11, 2006
21 points
Aug 29, 2014
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Well, it rained a fair amount everyday for the last five days including through yesterday evening. A dusting of snow was visible above 12,000 ft some of those days. Much dryer air is moving into the state today and tomorrow. So, routes that dry out quickly may be ok. But, routes that see seepage from above may remain wet for a while. I suspect Flying Buttress could be good to go by tomorrow since it doesn't have much terrain above it that seeps onto the route. I couldn't speak for Pervertical.
Long's Peak and the Diamond yesterday before anoth...
Long's Peak and the Diamond yesterday before another big downpour.
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points
Aug 29, 2014
Sagar Gondalia wrote:
Curious about the condition of the Flying Buttress and Pervertical. Friend was on cables yesterday and said things were pretty iced up, and the diamond was super wet.


Haven't been to longs, but I know that the Indian Peaks are crazy wet. Went up to Devil's Thumb last sunday and had to turn back because the cloud cover came in. Cloudy from ~5am to 11 above treeline. Most of the cliffs up there looks pretty wet.
Eliot Augusto
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 29, 2013
35 points
Aug 31, 2014
Climbing the Ridge Direct Route (Capitol Peak)
Judging from the webcam, looks like Longs got hammered all day. Guessing the odds of Pervertical being dry tomorrow are not good? Anyone know how Spearhead is doing? Kris Holub
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Jan 7, 2011
60 points
Sep 6, 2014
yep
Bump

Interested in the diamand and spearhead if anyone has info but my gut says the season might be over now.
Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 14, 2007
57 points
 
Sep 6, 2014
on belay
Gold Plated Rocket Pony wrote:
Bump Interested in the diamand and spearhead if anyone has info but my gut says the season might be over now.


Spearhead was fine a few days ago. Pretty windy, but everything else was near perfect.
Steve Jones
Joined Jun 6, 2011
122 points
Sep 7, 2014
chimney
anybody been on chasm view recently? Cocanower
From The High Country
Joined Jan 24, 2012
70 points
Sep 10, 2014
Really would like to climb Sharks tooth (canceled my plans twice in summer because of rain). Has anybody been there recently? Hoping the snow and ice will melt by Sunday. SYLA
Joined May 8, 2012
1 points
Sep 14, 2014
on belay
SYLA wrote:
Really would like to climb Sharks tooth (canceled my plans twice in summer because of rain). Has anybody been there recently? Hoping the snow and ice will melt by Sunday.


It's in good shape. Three weeks ago there were 2 short (50-100 FT) sections of frozen snow to cross. Boots and a trekking stick worked well. The upper crossing (to the bivy site) has a steep section below it, so a slide there could be serious. Maybe take yak trax, or such, if using approach shoes.

That's a pristine, beautiful place. Well worth the effort.
Steve Jones
Joined Jun 6, 2011
122 points
Sep 15, 2014
grit
Any Longs Peak info? Too late in the season or will this week go driftinhobbs
Joined Aug 19, 2013
45 points
Sep 15, 2014
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
SYLA wrote:
Really would like to climb ___ (canceled my plans twice in summer because of rain).

Well ATTFT?
(Aint that the F^%$ing Truth...)
California want's all this rain and we keep getting it.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,493 points
Sep 16, 2014
Odds on somebody with Lizard Head conditions? The 13er. Conditions would be nice. A partner to grab it a Fri-Sun before the big snow hits would be nice too. In Durango Ryan Marsters
Joined Jan 21, 2011
104 points
Mar 29, 2015
how's the approach to the diamond look like? bayouclimb
Joined Nov 18, 2013
4 points
 
Mar 29, 2015
Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect ...
bayouclimb wrote:
how's the approach to the diamond look like?


The trail to Chasm is nice and packed down, just a little icy. I'm not sure about the area past the lake but watched some guys approach this morning and they seemed to move along pretty quickly.
Eric Klammer
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 10, 2012
1,861 points


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