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Colorado Alpine Rock Conditions Summer 2014
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Jul 8, 2014
Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect ...
Andy Hansen wrote:
With the bridge out, how did you approach to Blitzen?



You can also head upstream a couple of hundred feet to find a perfect downed tree that spans the entire creek. Super solid, pretty wide, very easy.

Did Blitzen this Monday, perhaps my most fun day in the park ever! Definitely get on it!
Eric Klammer
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 10, 2012
1,861 points
Jul 15, 2014
Bump.

How are Indian Peaks looking? Specifically, Arapahoe Peaks traverse?

Can you drive to 4th of July TH?

Much appreciated!
Dan Vinson
Joined Dec 1, 2010
0 points
Jul 15, 2014
Dan Vinson wrote:
Bump. How are Indian Peaks looking? Specifically, Arapahoe Peaks traverse? Can you drive to 4th of July TH? Much appreciated!


You'll have to cross some water up on Arapahoe Pass. The 4th is open and busy. Ridgelines are dry and there was a good amount of snow around Diamond Lake. But it was great!
Eliot Augusto
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 29, 2013
35 points
Jul 15, 2014
Anyone do Solitude Lake Cirque Traverse recently? Jonny d
Joined Jan 7, 2011
16 points
Jul 17, 2014
Hows the Maroon Bells Four Pass loop looking? Were heading up early august and some insight would be nice. Thanks! David Vizcaino
Joined May 28, 2014
0 points
Jul 18, 2014
Recent pict
Trail Conditions into Spearhead?
Has anyone made the hike?
Rumor has it that downed trees and other debris slow the approach.
doug haller
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Jun 13, 2005
405 points
Jul 18, 2014
Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect ...
Also on the topic of Spearhead, anyone done the North Ridge yet? Totally dry, good to go? Eric Klammer
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 10, 2012
1,861 points
Jul 18, 2014
Outdid myself here
doug haller wrote:
Trail Conditions into Spearhead? Has anyone made the hike? Rumor has it that downed trees and other debris slow the approach.


It's seriously no big deal. A bit of a snowfield up to the E face, but the routes are all dry (especially the N Ridge)

Like, if the snow on Spearhead was a football team, it would be the Oakland Raiders, and Brock Osweiler would play the second half.
The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Joined Jun 21, 2013
248 points
 
Jul 18, 2014
avocado gully
Did North Ridge yesterday. Trail is in good shape, but it was really wet from a week of rain. The route was wet in spots from rain the previous day, and the moss was holding more moisture than I've ever seen. It's the slippery kind.
When it rained on us for the last pitch the moss (everywhere) was about as useful as verglas.
A dude doing the GG traverse reported to us similarly slimy conditions.
jon weekley
From Denver, Co
Joined May 22, 2010
191 points
Jul 19, 2014
Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect ...
Any recent updates on Kieners route? Just wondering if it has dried out anymore since the last report (6/27). Eric Klammer
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 10, 2012
1,861 points
Jul 20, 2014
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
Spearhead still has a large snow barrier blocking a few of the routes on the Northeast face. We got an alpine start for The Barb and the snow was hard and slick. We we're able to traverse on the rock slab at the base but we saw an party have much difficulty getting to Sykes. Maybe take light crampons if planning on these routes in the next couple of weeks LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
190 points
Jul 21, 2014
Doing Pervertical Sanctuary tomorrow...anyone know if its work wearing crampons to get to the N. Chimney? Anyone know if Pervertical is seeping? BillyGoatSam
From Colorado Springs
Joined Jan 21, 2012
0 points
Jul 21, 2014
Right before stepping onto the Emmons Glacier, bel...
Ellingwood Ledges on Crestone Needle was bone dry and spectacular on Friday. Sagar Gondalia
From Golden
Joined Jun 11, 2006
21 points
Jul 21, 2014
Outdid myself here
LawHous wrote:
Spearhead still has a large snow barrier blocking a few of the routes on the Northeast face. We got an alpine start for The Barb and the snow was hard and slick. We we're able to traverse on the rock slab at the base but we saw an party have much difficulty getting to Sykes. Maybe take light crampons if planning on these routes in the next couple of weeks


If you're gong in to bivy the night before, you can go up the snowfield before bed and kick super deep steps before the snow hardens overnight
The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Joined Jun 21, 2013
248 points
Jul 21, 2014
yep
BillyGoatSam wrote:
Doing Pervertical Sanctuary tomorrow...anyone know if its work wearing crampons to get to the N. Chimney? Anyone know if Pervertical is seeping?


We were up there on Saturday and I'd take something like yak tracks at minimum for the last little bit between the boulders and the start of N. Chimney especially if you get there before the sun is up. We thought a light ice axe wouldn't be a bad idea either. Definitely felt sketchy in my approach shoes trying to kick steps and grabbing the snow with my belay gloves on!

These look like they would have been perfect:
kahtoola.com/product/k10-hikin...
Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 14, 2007
57 points
Jul 22, 2014
Eric Klammer wrote:
Any recent updates on Kieners route? Just wondering if it has dried out anymore since the last report (6/27).



Did Kieners solo on Saturday. Crampons up the Lambslide in great condition, traversed Broadway with no snow, and kept my approach shoes on all the way from B-way past the Notch to Upper Kieners and the finish.

The route was in super good condition.
Dankasaurus
From Lyons, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2012
29 points
 
Jul 23, 2014
Approach to Whitney
Just did North Ridge on Spearhead today. Snowfield is shrinking in front of Sykes, saw a party go up this morning on it without a problem. Descents are dry.
Also--mosquitos are out and swarming in upper glacier gorge! I'm covered with about 30-40 mosquito bites right now. They're going up pretty high too--I got bitten on the summit. Bring bugspray and synthetics, and if you value your face and arms, use a bivy sack with netting.
Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Joined Mar 25, 2012
124 points
Jul 23, 2014
Summit of Chasm View
Just did Syke's Sickle on Spearhead yesterday. Route was dry and the descent we took via climbers left thru the notch was dry. The snow at the base was do-able for us in trail running shoes; we started after the sun had hit it (ca 8:00-8:30 am). As Anfarwal suggested, bug spray and netting would be needed if bivying. Tons of marmots, and they are also at the summit so watch your packs and helmets if you set them down while enjoying the amazing view! Kat A
From Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Joined Jun 23, 2006
581 points
Jul 23, 2014
Did pervertical yesterday (8/22) Spectacular Day!!!! Micro Spikes were very useful to get to the N. Chimney. The route was totally dry, no seepage (not that you would have to worry about that on that route). Tons of people doing D7 and the Casual Route, so I'm assuming they were dry as well. BillyGoatSam
From Colorado Springs
Joined Jan 21, 2012
0 points
Jul 24, 2014
Lincoln Falls
Will anybody be interested in Beaver route (5.5) on East Longs this Saturday? Would love to have another pair of eyes for route finding. Descent via Cables or hike down Loft.
Please let me know, Natalie
mountainproject.com/v/the-beav...
YPNat
Joined Dec 29, 2011
75 points
Aug 2, 2014
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...
Keyhole conditions are very alpine in flavor right now. Lots of verglas around 13,500' with patches of snow in the upper Trough, Narrows and Homestretch. Be prepared if you're heading up that way.

The Spearhead looked wet in the usual spots. The ledges below Syke's looked very wet. The south/east lower ramps (Below Age Axe and East Prow) looked wet. I saw and heard a party on North Ridge but can't comment on conditions. It should likely be dry today if it doesn't rain up there...

Chief's Head looked totally soaked.

But more importantly, has anyone been on/around The Diamond in the last few days? I got eyes on it yesterday and I didn't want to believe that it was very wet but, sadly, that may be the case. Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks

UPDATE: Spearhead is mostly dry. Below the Eye of Mordor is wet so accessing routes over there may be problematic. Chiefs Head is still streaking but should be dry sooner than later. 8/3/14
Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,578 points
Aug 4, 2014
Notchtop Spiral route was slightly wet but overall super safe and fun Saturday. Dankasaurus
From Lyons, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2012
29 points
Aug 5, 2014
Anyone been up (or down) the Cables route on Longs recently? Was thinking of taking my daughter up it this week if conditions were reasonable. Emil Briggs
Joined Sep 30, 2013
122 points
Aug 7, 2014
Lincoln Falls
Emil Briggs wrote:
Anyone been up (or down) the Cables route on Longs recently? Was thinking of taking my daughter up it this week if conditions were reasonable.

I was there the weekend before and it was pretty wet (aka waterfall type of wetness). I also was rappeling in the rain, so I am sure that wasn't helping. But even looking at it before the rain started showed a fair amount of water.

Diamond also looked wet, but again, it was shortly after it rained.
Cables.
Cables.


Cables.
Cables.


Diamond.
Diamond.
YPNat
Joined Dec 29, 2011
75 points
 
Aug 7, 2014
Bocan
wow lambs looks pretty decent. Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points


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