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Coliseum
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,701 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 14, 2009 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Description
Coliseum is the central line of the Gran Boveda, splitting the massive cave with 40 meters of relentless jugs & tufas. The line is consistently steep, but a cornucopia of great holds provides passage at a (relatively) modest grade. The line follows a vague overhanging dihedral, & an intermittent finger crack in the back provides a few key holds, though most of the climbing is on good pockets & fins. There isn't really a distinct crux, though there is a long dash between rests at around 2/3's height that is more likely to spoil your redpoint than any other section.
Begin atop a pair of large stalagmites. Stem onto the wall & head up a good tufa to an alcove. Move left & up passing many good rests, to the first of several horizontal bulges. Over this to another alcove, another bulge, & more tufa goodness. Eventually the tufas & pockets disappear. Furious liebacking leads to a tiered ledge of slopey edges. Move up & left to sinker, glue-reinforced pockets. Make a big move over the final bulge to a cool thread & a good shake. One last hard bit gains the slab.
This route stays dry when pretty much everything else is wet.
Begin atop a pair of large stalagmites. Stem onto the wall & head up a good tufa to an alcove. Move left & up passing many good rests, to the first of several horizontal bulges. Over this to another alcove, another bulge, & more tufa goodness. Eventually the tufas & pockets disappear. Furious liebacking leads to a tiered ledge of slopey edges. Move up & left to sinker, glue-reinforced pockets. Make a big move over the final bulge to a cool thread & a good shake. One last hard bit gains the slab.
This route stays dry when pretty much everything else is wet.
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