|Consensus:||Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+ [details]|
|FA:||Joel Terretti or Chet Gross? Late 1990s|
|Submitted By:||Tyrel Fuller on Nov 10, 2010|
|Comments on Colflesh Direct||Add Comment|
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By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 10, 2014
rating: V4- 6B
The history of this problem is a bit shady. The second hold (the nice flat double diagonal edges that you reach to from the starting holds) used to be a one and a half foot taller flake. It was a sharper, smaller, half pad edge on top for the left hand with a three finger pocket feature adjacent for the right hand. The flake was detached on the sides and hollow behind. Yet we climbed this problem as it was. Many times, by many people. One day, Ernie Colflesh and I went to this boulder to warm up on it around 2002, and the flake was gone. In its place were a bunch of chalk marks and some scars on the rock from a metal bar where the top of the flake met the rock behind it. None of the locals had pried it off. All in all, the flake's removal left a better climb with lower, larger holds and today the problem is enjoyed by many people. However, I doubt that the flake ever would have broken under even the biggest guy's fingertips. C'est la vie...
The first ascent was by Joel Terretti or Chet Gross, they both discovered this boulder independently around the same time in the late 1990's.