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Tiny Tots Rock
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Cole Lewis T 
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Tinker Toys T 

Cole Lewis 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Charles Cole, Gib Lewis
Page Views: 264
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 24, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

Of the 60+ rotues I did on J-tree in my last trip there, this was the third-least enjoyable...Buford's House of Liver was worse, and Junk Yard God sucks bald dog nuts.

Anyway, the climb itself has some less-than nice rock and gear, and the belay up top is a pain & blinded from the nice views you get from the top of other routes. This line starts up a crack on the N. End of the E Face (no sun in the winter) and continues up to an area past some crumbling rock and right onto the NE end of the rock. This would be a mentally and physically harder lead for most moderate climbers than Dinkey Doinks (5.8) would be.

Protection 

A standard light rack up to 4"


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By Randy
Jan 12, 2004

With a name like that, you could give a guess at the FA and be right. [Hint, FA: Charles Cole, Gib Lewis]
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Apr 30, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I don't remember this being R at all. There were some fun moves, but it was pretty grainy and way short.
By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Apr 7, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A very nice finger crack in a corner for the first half, then move out left on the face around the roof to easy climbing. Extra finger size with possibly one large 4" cam at the roof. 2-3" for the belay. I didn't notice anything disagreeable with this route.
By J Smith
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Ok route with a few fun moves. Short but all the routes on this rock are. Not any harder than Dinky Doinks, maybe easier.
By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Oct 22, 2012

Good climbing to roof then unprotected stemming to top (#6 cam :-). Easy belay anchor. No loose rock. Scramble straight down off back.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 21, 2013

Nice route and absolutely worth doing while in the area. Standard hand size crack leads to a horizontal crack and cap before entering the wide. Horizontal break takes hand size gear and wide as much as a #5 if you've got it. Enjoyable, not grungy, eats gear and separate anchor from the area classics left.