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Simon near the top of p1
|Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>|
The trick here is that P1 is quite interesting and only 5.8. P2 has the 5.9+ climbing, but many folks rap after P1 or finish on another climb.
P1 - Climb the left-facing flakes, then up the nose to some more flakes. Climb the second set of flakes to a nice ledge below some overhangs and a short, orange left-facing corner. Climb the corner to the overhang (crux) and step left to the outside edge of the corner, then straight up on big holds to the GT ledge or climb partially up the corner, then go up and right to a different corner, then up right around the corner on big holds, bypassing the overhang on the face to its right.
Standard Gunks rack.
A composite of a climber on "Cold Turkey"...
unknown climber on cold turkeys
Joe crushing P1 of Cold Turkeys
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 20, 2012
P1 is surprisingly fun, interesting and worth doing. Quite exposed during and after the crux.
Sep 17, 2015
P1 should be much more popular. Starts easy and gets harder as you go. Fun moves, exciting crux.
Nov 4, 2015
P1 is great -- surprised it's not better known and more popular. Arguably better than the arete pitch on Diretissima.
I guess the overall grade including much harder P2 deters lots of people from trying P1.