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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Zip Code 

Cold Turkey 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Erickson and Jim Hofman, 1969
Page Views: 760
Submitted By: S. Kimball on Jan 7, 2003
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Just below the crux. The handcrack ends, and the c...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Much better than fowl lunchmeat and stiff for the grade. Scramble right from Positively 4th St. and belay from an evergreen. Up friable 5.8 chimney (RP and slung spike protection) onto a great jug then ledge. Lieback a sharp, pebbly, right-facing corner seen 20 feet. left of Air Mail. Turn into a crystalline, thin crack with nice locks and hand jams, and some steepness. Finish up easy but loose corners to large tree with rap rings.

Rappel 140 feet or rope off toward the Rincon.

Nowadays, this would be F10 on the Sinks Bar jukebox.


Protection 

Standard Eldo with mid-size RP and #3.5 and #4 Friend.



Photos of Cold Turkey Slideshow Add Photo
Slinging the loose horn. There are small wires below on the right wall, and you can get in a mediocre #3/blue Camalot in a pocket above. But the climbing is not that hard, about 5.8. <br />Photo by Chuck Graves.
Slinging the loose horn. There are small wires bel...
Above the crux at the secondary crux. Photo by Chuck Graves.
Above the crux at the secondary crux. Photo by Chu...
Exiting the chimney. After only a couple of chimney moves you can reach the loose horn and get a stem. More stemming leads to jugs and the exit move. <br />Photo by Chuck Graves.
Exiting the chimney. After only a couple of chimne...
Looking up Cold Turkey. <br />The wide junky stuff at the bottom is worth it when you reach the solid steep crack....
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Cold Turkey.
The wide junky stuff at th...
Comments on Cold Turkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gregger Man
Aug 15, 2004

Very loose, sharp stuff. Double-check your hand and footholds or you may send down some large missiles. [2004]

Climbed it again Jan 2013. Not as bad as I had first thought.

By kyle lefkoff
Sep 30, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I agree with Kimball: This is a nice climb, with the usual loose section (down low in this case). Crusher and I split it into two short pitches from the base, since there's a good ledge half way. In this style, the P1 chimney (5.8) protects with a 3.5 Friend. The P2 crack (5.9+) is solid and well protected at the crux with a fixed pin and gear.

By Mike Munger
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 12, 2007

Good quality climbing in the crux corner. The rap rings weren't there May 2007 but it's easy to walk off left from the next ledge up.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Nov 10, 2009

Don't sling the horn mentioned in the description! It is ready to come off. A #3 Camalot in a pod above and left of the horn seems adequate.

By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

Jay's got a good point, but I say sling it anyway, and back it up with his suggestion. Who knows--it just might hold. There are ways to avoid putting all your weight on the horn in question while moving through that section.

By 303scott
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This should be on anyone's tour de obscure in Eldo. If you've climbed enough in Eldo to be searching for obscure routes, nothing on this one will cause you concern and there is some really nice crack climbing above the chimney. Also, it looks like someone is putting up anchors for a new route that will also service this one, which will make the last 50 feet of 5.3 scrambling on loose rock unnecessary.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 17, 2013

The horn in the chimney is gone. There is a nice foot in its place.

By Aaron Lucas
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Just for "fun", one can start at the base of Zip Code. Use the diagonal slab with small gear. This still puts one at the base of the chimney.