Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Mail T 
Backslash T 
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 
Bit by Bit T,S 
Bottlenecks T 
Clean Dan T 
Coffee Break with Joe T 
Cold Turkey T 
Coniferous Types T 
Crazy Fingers T 
Cruising Lane T 
Detour, The T 
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 
Duh Dihedral T 
Early Bird Special T 
Fine Line T,TR 
Five Fang Overhang T 
Fork in the Road T 
Formula, The T 
Foxtrot T 
Funeral March T 
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 
Hang Ten T,TR 
Highway 61 T 
Inverted Vee T 
Iron Pony T 
Kashmir T,TR 
Kubla Khan T 
Lady Fingers T 
Lunar Avenue T 
Lunar Lander T 
Masterbator's Edge, The T 
Milk and Honey T 
Milk Dreams T 
Mirage T 
Parallels T 
Pool of Blood T 
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 
Rhadamanthus T 
River Of Darkness T 
Road Narrows T 
Sign of the Cross T 
Snail Mail T 
Srinagar T 
Tampon T,TR 
Tango T 
Tanqueray T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Texas Two-Step T 
Three Lane Highway T 
Toprope Right of Formula TR 
Trip Itch T 
Tryptich T 
Whatever T 
Willow World T 
Working Class Hero T 
X T 
Xanadu T 
Zap Snack T 
Zip Code T 

Cold Turkey 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Erickson and Jim Hofman, 1969
Page Views: 971
Submitted By: S. Kimball on Jan 7, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Just below the crux. The handcrack ends, and the c...

2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>


Much better than fowl lunchmeat and stiff for the grade. Scramble right from Positively 4th St. and belay from an evergreen. Up friable 5.8 chimney (RP and slung spike protection) onto a great jug then ledge. Lieback a sharp, pebbly, right-facing corner seen 20 feet. left of Air Mail. Turn into a crystalline, thin crack with nice locks and hand jams, and some steepness. Finish up easy but loose corners to large tree with rap rings.

Rappel 140 feet or rope off toward the Rincon.

Nowadays, this would be F10 on the Sinks Bar jukebox.


Standard Eldo with mid-size RP and #3.5 and #4 Friend.

Photos of Cold Turkey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Slinging the loose horn. There are small wires bel...
Slinging the loose horn. There are small wires bel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the crux at the secondary crux. Photo by Chu...
Above the crux at the secondary crux. Photo by Chu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Exiting the chimney. After only a couple of chimne...
Exiting the chimney. After only a couple of chimne...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Cold Turkey. The wide junky stuff at th...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Cold Turkey. The wide junky stuff at th...

Comments on Cold Turkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gregger Man
Aug 15, 2004

Very loose, sharp stuff. Double-check your hand and footholds or you may send down some large missiles. [2004]

Climbed it again Jan 2013. Not as bad as I had first thought.
By kyle lefkoff
Sep 30, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I agree with Kimball: This is a nice climb, with the usual loose section (down low in this case). Crusher and I split it into two short pitches from the base, since there's a good ledge half way. In this style, the P1 chimney (5.8) protects with a 3.5 Friend. The P2 crack (5.9+) is solid and well protected at the crux with a fixed pin and gear.
By Mike Munger
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 12, 2007

Good quality climbing in the crux corner. The rap rings weren't there May 2007 but it's easy to walk off left from the next ledge up.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Nov 10, 2009

Don't sling the horn mentioned in the description! It is ready to come off. A #3 Camalot in a pod above and left of the horn seems adequate.
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

Jay's got a good point, but I say sling it anyway, and back it up with his suggestion. Who knows--it just might hold. There are ways to avoid putting all your weight on the horn in question while moving through that section.
By 303scott
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This should be on anyone's tour de obscure in Eldo. If you've climbed enough in Eldo to be searching for obscure routes, nothing on this one will cause you concern and there is some really nice crack climbing above the chimney. Also, it looks like someone is putting up anchors for a new route that will also service this one, which will make the last 50 feet of 5.3 scrambling on loose rock unnecessary.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 17, 2013

The horn in the chimney is gone. There is a nice foot in its place.
By Aaron Lucas
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Just for "fun", one can start at the base of Zip Code. Use the diagonal slab with small gear. This still puts one at the base of the chimney.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!