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Cold September Corner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe Herbst, Stephanie Petrilak, and Bill Bradley, 1978
Page Views: 3,362
Submitted By: Matt Faust on Mar 7, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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BETA PHOTO: Cold September Corner

Description 

Start in the corner to the right of the low roof which forms a cave in the middle of Sunnyside Crags. Climb the corner crack up through a couple roofs to a anchor under another big roof. This route is very intimidating for the grade, but the moves are there and are very enjoyable.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 Camalot


Photos of Cold September Corner Slideshow Add Photo
The roofs, oh the roofs, great protection.
The roofs, oh the roofs, great protection.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 1, 2014
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 8, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is such a great route. The roof looks totally improbable but when climbing it, the moves are all there and it's well protected with #4 and #3.5 Camalots. I've done a second pitch to this route, which wasn't as stellar but fun nonetheless. There is no fixed anchor for pitch 2 but plenty of gear placements. We walked left, up canyon, for quite some ways until we found a rappel anchor in a waterstreak. The anchor was a natural thread with slings and rings and we rapped with two ropes.
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
May 25, 2005

A fun, interesting route! You won't experience boredom on it, that's for sure! The roof move was pure fun after figuring out how to protect it. The only thing I didn't care that much for on the climb was the awkward stance and move over to the uncomfortable hanging belay, but who said climbing's all pleasure and no pain?
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

a big roof with jugs is not to be missed. i had a blast
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 27, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of the most classic pitches I have done at Red Rocks. A cool route with improbably easy moves.
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Probably the best moderate at this crag. Good protection and fun moves.
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
May 4, 2007

A good route: it looks harder than it is.
By Scott Miller
From: Denver, CO
Mar 31, 2008

I thought this climb was a ton of fun!! It sealed the deal for my love of Red Rock.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 4, 2009

Super fun. The roof was cool.. #4 and #3.5 camalot sewed it up, and I ended up chimneying across facing left. Good times! 60m rope just makes it.
By dana eyde
Mar 30, 2010

A great route for people who are newer to roofs. The roof-corner is high enough to make for a bit of psych-out factor; but when you arrive there it's possible to actually "sit," with legs stemming out to either a Coach legroom or Business Class legroom, giving one time to take some deep breaths and gather one's self for the exposure move to clear the corner. With the length of my legs, i chose Business Class, although on an airplane they would probably kick me out of that section.
By Mark J Gain
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think its longer than 60 Ft. Great route and one of the funnest pitches I have done in RR. And to have done it with Karen just made it that more special! Roofs, good jams, stemming, face climbing etc... its all there in one long pitch! Cool cave to hang out in at the belay too. The fixed #3 cam in the first roof is there for good, its trashed anyways but if you see it you know your on the correct route.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 11, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Probably the best single pitch of 5.8 in the park- or damn close to it. I seriously can't believe I climbed here for nearly a decade before getting on this thing. So classic!

Bring a #4 for the roof to supplement the fixed piece at the lip and some extra smallish stuff (to #0.75 camalot) for gear.

A single 60m will get you off it, but just barely- I'd say its probably exactly 100'.
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb! As intimidating as the climb appears, the holds are all solid and in the right spot, you just gotta find them! The fixed cam that has been mentioned is gone. Definitely bring a #4 for the roof. There is a piton to the right once you get up that seems pretty solid (not much experience with those). Definitely a climb you gotta do if you are in the area.
By Jared Wicks
From: Las Vegas
Jul 17, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super fun route with excellent gear placements. Definitely bring a #4 for the roof! As for the fixed #3 cam, I don't believe it is there anymore. The piton on the route is bomber and I believe it's from the FA (at least that's the word on the streets). There's also a wired nut that has become one with the rock and isn't going anywhere. This route is a perfect climb for when the temps are 100+ in the valley. The roof can be a bit intimidating but the holds are there.
By Sasha Cohen
From: South Lake Tahoe CA
Oct 17, 2013

This is the first route I've ever climbed at the Red Rocks and I've been climbing about 7 years. I didn't think it was rated correctly. It was rated in the 70's when 5 10's were the highest rating. It was harder than any 5 8 I've ever done. The gear was good when there was gear. The first roof was really tricky and I would not recommend it to beginning leaders. The rock was beautiful. The area was beautiful. Just not a 5 8.
By Mtnfly
From: El Segundo, Ca
Apr 1, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Had a really good time on the route. I usually lead around 5.8 trad and felt it was a solid 5.8. Good rests, but definitely had to figure out both roofs. There is an escape around the first roof to the right on exposed face after placing a bomber # 5 in roof crack....120cm sling. Or you can stay in wide roof crack and kind of chimney around it.

70m got me to ground no prob......great 2-bolt anchor at top of corner on great varnish. Great for top rope....no pulling issues. The guide book says to traverse to left at the top of the corner to a shared anchor, but I never saw that.