All Locations >
Arizona
> Central Arizona
> Queen Creek Canyon
> Lower Devil's C…
> Lower Devil's E…
> Southern Crags
Cold Rush
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 7 votes
Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Geir, Marcy, and Doso, 12/09 |
Page Views: | 1,618 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Dec 28, 2009 |
Admins: | Aaron Mc, Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Details
Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
This thrilling route is located on the southern end of LDE. Like almost every LDE climb, it was established on lead drilling bolts from hook placements when necessary. The climb ascends two pitches of great rock and has a terrific summit. The first pitch looks simple but has surprisingly tricky moves and gear. The second pitch is beautiful and challenging; it is one of the best pitches I've done in Queen Creek.
Pitch 1: From the comfortable ledge at the start of the climb, head up to gain a crack. Marcy did the FA by starting on the right side of the wall from the belay stance. Climb the crack to its end, pass through a short crux section, and continue to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. (5.8, 60')
Pitch 2: Wander up the left side of the steep face protected by small gear and three bolts. Thoughtful, sustained movement, multiple cruxes, and tricky but solid gear make this a classic, outstanding pitch!! A good hint to keep in mind is that the climb briefly heads up and right toward the center of the face after the second bolt (see topo). (5.11-, 80')
To get to the summit, step left and pull a few easy moves to the top (15'). A belay anchor is on the actual summit, a rap anchor will be on your right just before the summit.
Descent: You can rap the route with a single 60m rope. The first rappel goes from the top of the tower to the top of the first pitch. From here one more rappel takes you to the ground.
Pitch 1: From the comfortable ledge at the start of the climb, head up to gain a crack. Marcy did the FA by starting on the right side of the wall from the belay stance. Climb the crack to its end, pass through a short crux section, and continue to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. (5.8, 60')
Pitch 2: Wander up the left side of the steep face protected by small gear and three bolts. Thoughtful, sustained movement, multiple cruxes, and tricky but solid gear make this a classic, outstanding pitch!! A good hint to keep in mind is that the climb briefly heads up and right toward the center of the face after the second bolt (see topo). (5.11-, 80')
To get to the summit, step left and pull a few easy moves to the top (15'). A belay anchor is on the actual summit, a rap anchor will be on your right just before the summit.
Descent: You can rap the route with a single 60m rope. The first rappel goes from the top of the tower to the top of the first pitch. From here one more rappel takes you to the ground.
Location
From the main trail leading to the Entrance tower, head right (south) toward the Coop. Just before the Coop turn right, head downhill for about 50', then turn left and continue south on a well-marked trail toward the climb. A hand line is present to help negotiate a short but nasty gully leading to a spacious belay at the bottom of the climb.
See the overview photo to identify the climb.
See the overview photo to identify the climb.
7 Comments