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Glacier Point Apron
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A Mother's Lament T 
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Cold Fusion 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Spencer 1990
Page Views: 1,289
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Mar 7, 2007

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Al Swanson on "Cold Fusion". Photo by Bl...

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  • Description 

    Cold Fusion is a good mixed route of bolts and gear with the crux being located on the first pitch.

    P1: Follow bolts up a steep slab angling left, this is the crux. (5.10c)

    P2: Climb a gear protected corner straight up to a small overhang. Pull the overhang and continue past a bolt to the anchor. (5.9)

    P3: Follow another bolted pitch to a ledge and anchor. (5.10b)


    This route is located on the west side of Glacier Point. Approach from the abandoned dump site at the farthest east end of Curry Village. There is a huge 5.0 corner just to the left of this route, look for the bolts on the first pitch. Rap the route to descend


    Quickdraws and a standard rack of stoppers and cams up to 2" or 3". All the anchors have bolts

    Comments on Cold Fusion Add Comment
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    By Scotty Nelson
    From: Boulder
    Apr 2, 2007

    I thought this was a fun, well-protected route.
    By Will S
    From: Joshua Tree
    Apr 12, 2007
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Just did this yesterday, hot and with the route in sun, after first doing it in '99. Take a small cam (blue alien equivalent) to protect the move to the first bolt. First pitch is sustained slab & dime edges for about half the pitch. Second pitch is heavily vegetated, but climbing along the arete edge and using the crack closest to the arete for pro works well. This short pitch take good cams in the 1" range and is no harder than 5.8 Third pitch has a short crux right off the belay and quickly eases. Belay at the ledge on a station to the left. A rap (barely with a single 70m, better with two 60s) takes you to a flat sandy ledge directly below the station. A double rope rap from here will put you onto a 3rd class scramble off (part of the approach for Harry Daley route). Walk down 3rd class to climber's left or downclimb 4th class on climber's right.
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