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This is the short, bolted face just down from the chimney where The Radlands of Infinity starts. Though this is certainly not a route, you'll dream about after you do it, it's a fun, short, sport 5.10 for finishing up a day at the Blob. A solid entrance move begins the varied face climbing past a bolt and a small slot for a camming unit. Climbing past the 2nd bolt and off the steep face to the gully is the crux. Cruise up and left to the 2 bolt anchor to set up the top rope.
Originally, this was done on gear.
Now, 2 bolts, 1 or 2 small camming units.
At the first bolt. The crack angling right from Lu...
There are 2 good green Aliens at Luke's left hand....
BETA PHOTO: Cold Fusion. Climb cracks and face just right of ...
BETA PHOTO: The upper bolt and the crux area.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 16, 2002
Quite nice. A finger-sized cam protects the first move. A 9 or easy 10 move past the first bolt gets you to a ledge. You can place a #1/red Camalot in the ledge. One or two micro cams get you to the second bolt, but the cams may not be necessary since it's not that hard. The crux, at the second bolt, is essentially toproped. If you're going to toprope the second, place a #2/gold Camalot before angling left to the anchors.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 25, 2004
Quality 40-ft route. Balance is key. Thanks, addendum George, Teri, and Dan, again! You can also TR a similar-difficulty line between the 5.7 OW to the L & this route from the same anchors.
|By George Bracksieck|
May 30, 2011
I led this climb in May, 1993, before "first ascent" and bolt installation by Dan. I placed a couple of ballnuts, etc. Teri Ebel followed me up this pitch.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Nov 3, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
This is a fun route, and I agree that it is too bad it is not longer.