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Cold Fusion 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: George Bracksieck & Teri Ebel, 1993. Retrobolted: Dan Hare and Susan Simpson, 1995
Page Views: 808
Submitted By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Oct 20, 2002
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A cold day on Cold Fusion. Chuck Graves belaying.
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  • Description 

    This is the short, bolted face just down from the chimney where The Radlands of Infinity starts. Though this is certainly not a route, you'll dream about after you do it, it's a fun, short, sport 5.10 for finishing up a day at the Blob. A solid entrance move begins the varied face climbing past a bolt and a small slot for a camming unit. Climbing past the 2nd bolt and off the steep face to the gully is the crux. Cruise up and left to the 2 bolt anchor to set up the top rope.


    Protection 

    Originally, this was done on gear.

    Now, 2 bolts, 1 or 2 small camming units.



    Photos of Cold Fusion Slideshow Add Photo
    Cold Fusion.  Climb cracks and face just right of the Central Chimney.
    BETA PHOTO: Cold Fusion. Climb cracks and face just right of ...
    At the first bolt. The crack angling right from Luke looks climbable, but I haven't tried it. The corner right of Luke that meets the diagonal crack is dirty.
    At the first bolt. The crack angling right from Lu...
    There are 2 good green Aliens at Luke's left hand. You can get a funky brass nut at Luke's head above the "ledge" or a worse microcam. The second bolt is reached after moving your feet up to the level of Luke's chest. At the second bolt move more or less straight right to stand on the slab.
    There are 2 good green Aliens at Luke's left hand....
    The upper bolt and the crux area.
    BETA PHOTO: The upper bolt and the crux area.
    Comments on Cold Fusion Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Dec 16, 2002

    Quite nice. A finger-sized cam protects the first move. A 9 or easy 10 move past the first bolt gets you to a ledge. You can place a #1/red Camalot in the ledge. One or two micro cams get you to the second bolt, but the cams may not be necessary since it's not that hard. The crux, at the second bolt, is essentially toproped. If you're going to toprope the second, place a #2/gold Camalot before angling left to the anchors.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Aug 25, 2004

    Quality 40-ft route. Balance is key. Thanks, addendum George, Teri, and Dan, again! You can also TR a similar-difficulty line between the 5.7 OW to the L & this route from the same anchors.

    By James R. Arnold
    Nov 19, 2007

    Really nice route - too bad it isn't longer!

    By George Bracksieck
    May 30, 2011

    I led this climb in May, 1993, before "first ascent" and bolt installation by Dan. I placed a couple of ballnuts, etc. Teri Ebel followed me up this pitch.

    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Littleton
    Nov 3, 2013
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    This is a fun route, and I agree that it is too bad it is not longer.