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Ainger Lake
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Cold Forged Steel T,S 
Vanishing Point, The T,S 

Cold Forged Steel 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 5 pitches, 450', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: July-Early October
Page Views: 1,124
Submitted By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Mar 25, 2011

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View from the top of the Ainger Lake Formation.

Description 

Glue them fingernails down and get ready for some slab! Neat fins and knobs litter this route and are of general great quality. A very enjoyable climb and worth the effort to get there.

P1: 5.9
Climb the face up to the medium sized tree and ledge. 2 bolt anchor

P2: 5.10b
Climb on up the steep slab following bolts and supplementing with nuts/cams. Near the top go slightly right to gain the belay ledge. Large pine tree is above you. Longest pitch on the route!

P3: 5.10a
Climb up the steep pocketed face and head right angling for the large tree that you will set up as an anchor. Alternatively you can build a gear anchor just the left of the tree.

P4: 5.9
Climb up a water streak following bolts aiming for a small ledge with a tree on it.

P5: 5.10a
The money pitch! Climb up and left to gain a large slab littered with chert knobs and other little features. Drop them heels and get your slab on and finish up on top of the large ledge system. Tree belay. Head right for the summit (5.5) or left towards the large tree to rappel.


Location 

This route starts in the middle of the main formation up and just a little left from the large cave if approached from Ainger Lake. Look for the bolt line just off the ground. Enjoy!


Protection 

A light rack consisting of a rack of nuts and singles .5-2 should be sufficient. It can be climbed as a sport climb without placing anything if comfortable at the grade. I would roll mostly alpine draws as sometimes the routes and placements are a little wandering. 18-20 draws and webbing for the anchors. Can be rapped with single rope off of the large tree. From summit two ropes are required to rap.



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By Fink
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Oct 15, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Near the top of pitch 2, avoid your natural mountaineering instincts to head ever so slightly left towards the obvious ledge / gully. The route stays just a couple feet off to the right of this in order to eek out a few more feet of climbing, and, more importantly, avoid some pretty heinous looseness that would head directly towards your belayer.

We carried a set of stoppers along with C4's from #.5-2 and that was *way* overkill. Only necessary placement was one cam (.5 iirc) approx 50' into the third pitch.

Roped up and ready to climb almost exactly 1 hour after leaving the car.

By Kevin Macartney
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 9, 2013

Personally I can't consider this grade IV even with the hike... ~1 hour from car to crag, 5 hours to the summit and back to the bags, and ~1.5 hours back to the car. We moved at a relaxed pace the whole time making for what I would consider an "average" speed.

Depending on skill level, experience, and cojones the most supplemental gear I would bring would be a single run of cams 0.3 to 0.75 and a run of stoppers. More experienced and bold climbers could get away without any extra gear, but pitch 3 would prove airy for most parties.

Also of note many of the bolts after the first pitch are missing washers and you may want to hand tighten them as you go by...

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Jul 10, 2013

Let's see, Grade IV standards... North Ridge of the Grand Teton, any route on the Incredible Hulk, Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock in Yosemite, East Buttress of El Cap, Pingora's Northeast Face... and Cold Forged Steel!!

Commitment grades do seem meaningless anymore with people commonly climbing grade VI in a day. For people who do care about such things, grade IV does seem a little gratuitous by about two levels. It's a grade II.

Great little adventure if my memory serves right. Hopefully it's cleaned up some since my 2005 ascent!