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Coke Explosion T 
Gagger, The T,S 

Coke Explosion 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA: Bryan Bird, Eric Draper, and Joe French
Page Views: 404
Submitted By: b hof on Feb 24, 2013

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Following pitch 2's upper fingers corner

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Description 

Coke Explosion is a fun route with short cruxes with the last pitch being the only throw away. To get to the 1st pitch make a tricky high step move to get on an easy slab to a big ledge. There is an anchor to make the down easier.

Pitch 1: Climb a easy right slanting ramp past a tree to a short crux section 5.9.

Pitch 2: Climb a left facing big fingers/tight hands flake above the belay (5.10) making it to a good rest then head toward the short offwidth section to a big finger section to the belay.

Pitch 3: Climb the chimney and then a 5.9 hand section making your way left to another chimney to the top belay from a tree up and left of the climb

Location 

Rap the route with 2 60m ropes starting from a slung tree to the right of the route making 3 rappels to get down. If you have 70m ropes it only takes 2 rapples

Protection 

2 each from fingers to big hands, a #4, #5, #6, long slings


Photos of Coke Explosion Slideshow Add Photo
The route follows the sun/shade line trending l to r through pitch 1, then r to l pitch 2-3
The route follows the sun/shade line trending l to...
Pitch 1 corner
Pitch 1 corner
Chimney off pitch 3
Chimney off pitch 3

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By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Sep 29, 2013

A fun moderate 5.10 sunny 3 pitch route that's no "Headache" but still fun. The 2nd pitch OW is #6 camalot size, and if you don't bring one its a 12-15 foot run between pieces, though the liebacking is pretty easy, so the #6 is optional. I didn't bring one and it was exciting but fine. A #5 camalot however is pretty necessary to protect the section before the OW. If you don't have a #5 or #6, its more like 25 feet of runout here. The 3rd pitch has an initial section of chimney that's easy, protected by one bolt, and then the #5 is handy in the 2nd section of chimney. I never placed the #4. Summary: double rack from .3 camalot to #2 camalot, 1 #3, 1 #5 camalot. #4/#6 optional.

Pitches 1-2 can easily be rappelled with one 70m rope, but pitch 3 is too long by about 20 feet, so 2 ropes are required unless you want to downclimb the initial 15 foot chimney of pitch 3 to the anchor unroped(unsafe but reasonable in difficulty). Beware of stuck ropes on first rap, you'll see some while climbing pitch 3.
By Alec
Nov 17, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

We found this to be really fun, with engaging, varied climbing on good rock. It's quite moderate for Zion with maybe two moves of 5.10 but the rest consistent 5.8/9.

I'd call it Grade II, too, you can blast up it in a couple hours pretty easily.

There's a pretty good trail to the base, provided you enter at the right drainage. Hiking up the drainage is improbable, but persevere and you'll find a cairned path to the base of the cliff.
By zachlee
Jan 13, 2014

There are new rap anchors making it possible to rap with one 60M. They are rope stretchers so make sure you have a very full 60. The first rap down is still the same off the tree but land far climbers left of the original anchors. Then land at "the gaggers" anchors next.