|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c X [details]|
|FA:||Steve Grossman, Gary Hervert, 1982|
|Submitted By:||Paul Davidson on Feb 18, 2009|
|Comments on Coherent Excitation||Add Comment|
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By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 27, 2016
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Finally got on this thing today. The rock that you climb on is actually really good quality, but the rock that your pro goes in is (mostly) pretty questionable. I wasn't really planning on leading it today, but decided to give it a go after Crow's Nest. Anyways, I only had some nuts/hexes and three microcams with me. As such, it's pretty spicy. Having some more cams (micro and finger/tight hand sizes) would have taken some of the sting out of it, but not much. Tiny nuts would definitely help protect the first corner. That being said, nuts/small hexes were crucial in a few places, and preferable over cams in others (passive pro is less likely to destroy the fragile flakes).
As for the route itself: look for a shallow, right-facing corner with a bit of vegetation in it and head for that (first piece is about 25' up). At the end of the corner, place some small/questionable gear, make a few tenuous moves of face/slab to a big horn, place some more questionable gear, then head straight up over the bulge, following the path of least resistance, until you pull a few more hardish moves and finally end on a big ledge. From the ledge it's easy to traverse over to the second pitch anchors of Crow's Nest. Otherwise, build an anchor and continue up on something else. There are definitely parts where, if you really wanted to, you could traverse left to Straight Arrow and bail. That being said, the line itself is not contrived, and follows a fairly obvious path.
The three stars come from a combination of relatively good climbing, history, and seriousness (the latter two matter to me, but they may not to you. If the route was fully bolted I'd give it 1 1/2 stars). As for the rating: it can be hard to accurately grade a route when it's scary, so maybe it is .11 and not .11a/b. Who knows... Let's get a consensus on it! A great adventure not more than five minutes from the road!
Final note: aside from the first bit of unprotected climbing, the route maybe warrants a hard R, rather than an X; if the gear held, you'd probably be alright. If it didn't, you definitely would not be alright. Either way, I think onsighting would be a good idea.