Coffin Nail 5.7+
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BETA PHOTO: A good view of P.2. climb Solid on this one and ye...
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Description This large, clean, right-facing dihedral is to the left of the start to Traitor Horn, and just left of On the Road. Pitch 1 starts with third class scrambling, followed by 5.3 crack climbing. The long second pitch has strenuous hand jamming near the start, an easy finger crack above, and then a crux move over an overhang. The climb finishes on Jensen’s Jaunt.
Protection extra hand size pieces
BETA PHOTO: The start of Coffin Nail after the easy 5.2 scramb...
| Standing over the roof on Coffin Nail. Belay from ...
| BETA PHOTO: Route overview. First half is 4th class and chimne...
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By The Gray Tradster Feb 25, 2006
| The best way to approach Traitor Horn or Pearly Gates |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell From: PG, Utah Aug 14, 2007
| Climbed outside the wide gully at the beginning. On the face to the left I actually found a few new bolts (is this some 'new' route?), that although runout, were really easy to follow. I was able to rejoin the crack right when it steepens and becomes tight hands for a few moves. I thought the the roof jam crack at the top was fantastic! Used this route to approach "Traitor Horn." |
By tony grice Aug 28, 2007
| The best 5.8 crack on Tahquitz. A must do. Hey crisco I think you were on the arete moves on P.1 of El Camino real. |
By ACassebeer From: Mojave, CA Aug 25, 2009
| Well-protected crux on clean rock. This would be a good first 5.8 lead at Tahquitz. |
By Justin Tomlinson From: Monrovia, CA Aug 8, 2011
| I found the hardest climbing to be near the start of the crack. The lieback dihedral/roof section proved to be very fun and quite solid hands/protection. I agree, a great first 5.8 lead. |
By Trad Nanny Jan 14, 2012 rating: 5.8
| A classic second pitch. We linked this with Traitor Horn for full value. With a 70m rope I belayed for the 2nd pitch after the first traverse past the "traitor" horn. With long runners rope drag can be avoided easily. For clarification: Pitch One: Easy 5.3 to an alcove with a tree. Pitch Two: 5.8 crack with a nice to hands rest on the left before committing to a nice layback to a good roof pull. Complete the first traverse under the "Traitor Horn" to a belay if linking to the "Traitor Horn" route. 70m rope might be required for this. Pitch Three: Up the corner a bit from the belay, then traverse right to clip a pin then figure out how to mount the horn. Don't blow the moves onto the horn or you will find your self with a ugly fall. Once standing on the horn. Move over the lip and belay 30ft higher in a wide crack. Pitch Four: Up and right for a nice friction pitch. Standard friction descent from there. |
By The Ruin-er From: CA Apr 8, 2012 rating: 5.8
| did this into traitor horn today, its amazing and 5.8 |
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