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West Face - Right Side
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Acrobat, The T 
Angle Iron Traverse T 
Coffin Nail T 
Crimes of Passion T 
Dos Equis T 
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Fingertip Traverse T 
Fingertrip T 
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Jensen's Jaunt T 
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On the Road T 
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Traitor Horn T 
Unknown? T 

Coffin Nail 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,814
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: A good view of P.2. climb Solid on this one and ye...

Description 

This large, clean, right-facing dihedral is to the left of the start to Traitor Horn, and just left of On the Road. Pitch 1 starts with third class scrambling, followed by 5.3 crack climbing. The long second pitch has strenuous hand jamming near the start, an easy finger crack above, and then a crux move over an overhang. The climb finishes on Jensenís Jaunt.

Protection 

extra hand size pieces


Photos of Coffin Nail Slideshow Add Photo
Route overview. First half is 4th class and chimney system below the red line; second half is the crack to the left of the red line.
BETA PHOTO: Route overview. First half is 4th class and chimne...
The start of Coffin Nail after the easy 5.2 scramble to a tree.
BETA PHOTO: The start of Coffin Nail after the easy 5.2 scramb...
Standing over the roof on Coffin Nail. Belay from the alcove after the "traitor" horn and before the real horn.
Standing over the roof on Coffin Nail. Belay from ...
Looking down where the angle lessens and the hand crack thins to fingers
Looking down where the angle lessens and the hand ...

Comments on Coffin Nail Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 18, 2014
By The Gray Tradster
Feb 25, 2006

The best way to approach Traitor Horn or Pearly Gates
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 14, 2007

Climbed outside the wide gully at the beginning. On the face to the left I actually found a few new bolts (is this some 'new' route?), that although runout, were really easy to follow. I was able to rejoin the crack right when it steepens and becomes tight hands for a few moves. I thought the the roof jam crack at the top was fantastic! Used this route to approach "Traitor Horn."
By tony grice
Aug 28, 2007

The best 5.8 crack on Tahquitz. A must do. Hey crisco I think you were on the arete moves on P.1 of El Camino real.
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Aug 25, 2009

Well-protected crux on clean rock. This would be a good first 5.8 lead at Tahquitz.
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Aug 8, 2011

I found the hardest climbing to be near the start of the crack. The lieback dihedral/roof section proved to be very fun and quite solid hands/protection. I agree, a great first 5.8 lead.
By Tradoholic
Jan 14, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A classic second pitch. We linked this with Traitor Horn for full value. With a 70m rope I belayed for the 2nd pitch after the first traverse past the "traitor" horn. With long runners rope drag can be avoided easily.

For clarification:
Pitch One: Easy 5.3 to an alcove with a tree.
Pitch Two: 5.8 crack with a nice to hands rest on the left before committing to a nice layback to a good roof pull. Complete the first traverse under the "Traitor Horn" to a belay if linking to the "Traitor Horn" route. 70m rope might be required for this.
Pitch Three: Up the corner a bit from the belay, then traverse right to clip a pin then figure out how to mount the horn. Don't blow the moves onto the horn or you will find your self with a ugly fall. Once standing on the horn. Move over the lip and belay 30ft higher in a wide crack.
Pitch Four: Up and right for a nice friction pitch. Standard friction descent from there.
By The Ruin-er
From: CA
Apr 8, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

did this into traitor horn today, its amazing and 5.8
By natebloser
May 27, 2014

We approached the route using the start to El Camino Real, then up and right past a bolt. Nice extra credit.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Jun 19, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

As a counterpoint to an opinion above, I think it would be cruel to put someone on this as their first 5.8 lead. Stout for the grade and sustained.

That being said, this combined with Traiter Horn -- HOLY FUQ. Coffin + Horn = maybe the best 5.8 I've ever done. Just superb.
By Chris Bersbach
From: Arroyo Grande, CA
Jul 15, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Some may find Sam's comment above to be true, although Coffin Nail was my *second* 5.8 gear lead, after Traitor Horn (my partner and I did the first two pitches of Jensen's to TH the day before, then CN to TH that day). It definitely felt stout to me at the time, but the pro is so, SO good that I still think it's a solid, if challenging example of what sustained 5.8 feel like, and therefore a good lead for the emerging, ambitious 5.8 leader. I'm looking forward to going back and doing it again, and expect that it'll feel much more casual, now that we've climbed some of the hill's classic 5.9s.

I *definitely* second (third? fourth?) the notion that Coffin to Traitor makes for a truly incredible 5.8 when linked.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Sep 18, 2014

Led this years ago and I can confirm that this is pretty stout for the grade. A great route to be sure, just be aware that the climbing is somewhat sustained. I can still remember all these years later how much fun the little roof section was. Have fun.