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BETA PHOTO: A good view of P.2. climb Solid on this one and ye...
This large, clean, right-facing dihedral is to the left of the start to Traitor Horn, and just left of On the Road. Pitch 1 starts with third class scrambling, followed by 5.3 crack climbing. The long second pitch has strenuous hand jamming near the start, an easy finger crack above, and then a crux move over an overhang. The climb finishes on Jensenís Jaunt.
extra hand size pieces
BETA PHOTO: The start of Coffin Nail after the easy 5.2 scramb...
Standing over the roof on Coffin Nail. Belay from ...
BETA PHOTO: Route overview. First half is 4th class and chimne...
|By The Gray Tradster|
Feb 25, 2006
The best way to approach Traitor Horn or Pearly Gates
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Aug 14, 2007
Climbed outside the wide gully at the beginning. On the face to the left I actually found a few new bolts (is this some 'new' route?), that although runout, were really easy to follow. I was able to rejoin the crack right when it steepens and becomes tight hands for a few moves. I thought the the roof jam crack at the top was fantastic! Used this route to approach "Traitor Horn."
|By tony grice|
Aug 28, 2007
The best 5.8 crack on Tahquitz. A must do. Hey crisco I think you were on the arete moves on P.1 of El Camino real.
From: Mojave, CA
Aug 25, 2009
Well-protected crux on clean rock. This would be a good first 5.8 lead at Tahquitz.
|By Justin Tomlinson|
From: Monrovia, CA
Aug 8, 2011
I found the hardest climbing to be near the start of the crack. The lieback dihedral/roof section proved to be very fun and quite solid hands/protection. I agree, a great first 5.8 lead.
|By Trad Nanny|
Jan 14, 2012
A classic second pitch. We linked this with Traitor Horn for full value. With a 70m rope I belayed for the 2nd pitch after the first traverse past the "traitor" horn. With long runners rope drag can be avoided easily.
Pitch One: Easy 5.3 to an alcove with a tree.
Pitch Two: 5.8 crack with a nice to hands rest on the left before committing to a nice layback to a good roof pull. Complete the first traverse under the "Traitor Horn" to a belay if linking to the "Traitor Horn" route. 70m rope might be required for this.
Pitch Three: Up the corner a bit from the belay, then traverse right to clip a pin then figure out how to mount the horn. Don't blow the moves onto the horn or you will find your self with a ugly fall. Once standing on the horn. Move over the lip and belay 30ft higher in a wide crack.
Pitch Four: Up and right for a nice friction pitch. Standard friction descent from there.
|By The Ruin-er|
Apr 8, 2012
did this into traitor horn today, its amazing and 5.8