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Ice Cream Parlor
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Coffin Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Gilje, Bob Novellino
Page Views: 2,686
Submitted By: Dustin B on Sep 28, 2008

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Nearing the top of the route... tight to perfect, ...

Description 

Route pulls the low roof on fist jams and face holds, then continues up the corner. At the top of the corner climb on inside the coffin.

Location 

Route is to the right of Ice Cream Parlor Crack and left of Possesed.

Protection 

#3 camalots protect the roof and some small cams and stoppers protect the corner. Once inside the squeeze chimney no gear should be needed, but there is a crack on climbers left in the back corner that takes stoppers and small cams, your follower may curse you if you protect this crack though, as it is tough to get over and work in there.


Photos of Coffin Crack Slideshow Add Photo
looking down from the belay, #4 big bro was bomber
looking down from the belay, #4 big bro was bomber
The coffin follows the roof to the OW, to the sque...
BETA PHOTO: The coffin follows the roof to the OW, to the sque...

Comments on Coffin Crack Add Comment
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By Eric Odenthal
Oct 19, 2009

YEAH DUDE! it was burly and full value. old school 5.9 yos rating. so freaking classic though. a 3.5 camelot protects the roof, some small tcu's are good to have. I place a 4.5, #5, #6 camelot before the squeeze. once in the squeeze, struggle, grunt, suffer... do you have the technique? I placed a #4 big bro (my first big bro placement) half way up. psyched! 100' to the right of the anchor to the deck.