Coffin Crack 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Tom Gilje, Bob Novellino |
| Submitted By: | Dustin B on Sep 28, 2008 |
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Nearing the top of the route... tight to perfect, ...
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Description Route pulls the low roof on fist jams and face holds, then continues up the corner. At the top of the corner climb on inside the coffin.
Location Route is to the right of Ice Cream Parlor Crack and left of Possesed.
Protection #3 camalots protect the roof and some small cams and stoppers protect the corner. Once inside the squeeze chimney no gear should be needed, but there is a crack on climbers left in the back corner that takes stoppers and small cams, your follower may curse you if you protect this crack though, as it is tough to get over and work in there.
looking down from the belay, #4 big bro was ...
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BETA PHOTO: The coffin follows the roof to the OW, to the sque...
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By Eric Odenthal
Oct 19, 2009
| YEAH DUDE! it was burly and full value. old school 5.9 yos rating. so freaking classic though. a 3.5 camelot protects the roof, some small tcu's are good to have. I place a 4.5, #5, #6 camelot before the squeeze. once in the squeeze, struggle, grunt, suffer... do you have the technique? I placed a #4 big bro (my first big bro placement) half way up. psyched! 100' to the right of the anchor to the deck. |
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