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Coffin Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
C.P.O.D. T 
Closed Casket Variation S 
Coffin Roof T 
Coffin, The T 
Exsqueeze Me S 
No Star Tuesday T 
Rightside Variation T 
Strewn Masters of Hore S 
Viewing, The S 

Coffin Buttress Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.5739, -111.771 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 80,737
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 24, 2004
This Afternoon

17° | 13°

25° | 17°

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33° | 26°

42° | 27°

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Ed Webster attempting the Coffin Roof (5.12a), Lit...


The Coffin Buttress is home to one of the finest finger cracks in Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Coffin (5.9). Also, a couple of bolted routes run up the slabs and a very difficult crack splits the Coffin Roof (5.12).

Getting There 

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below the obvious shaped Coffin Buttress.

The most enjoyable way to get to The Coffin is to first climb Crescent Crack (5.7, 2 pitches) on the Crescent Crack Buttress. This lands you right at the base of the rock. Another alternative is to climb a steep trail that leads to the base, to the right of the Crescent Crack Buttress approach trail.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.0 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Coffin Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Coffin Buttress:
The Coffin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Rightside Variation   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Viewing   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
C.P.O.D.   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Closed Casket Variation   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Exsqueeze Me   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Coffin Roof   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Coffin Buttress

Featured Route For Coffin Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Merrill Bitter on a successful ascent, early 1980'...

Coffin Roof 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Coffin Buttress
Power fingerlocks and pinches take you to a sloper. Another pinch and finger crack take you up and over the lip. Follow a 5.7 crack to the top of the Coffin.This was the first 5.12 in LCC...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Coffin Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the coffin buttress
the coffin buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Anna with the coffin behind her
Anna with the coffin behind her
Rock Climbing Photo: The Coffin
The Coffin
Rock Climbing Photo: Great map of how to approach the coffin
BETA PHOTO: Great map of how to approach the coffin
Rock Climbing Photo: Crescent Crack Buttress from the road: 1-Mexican C...
BETA PHOTO: Crescent Crack Buttress from the road: 1-Mexican C...
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: THE SHARP END!

Comments on Coffin Buttress Add Comment
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By Peter Gram
From: New York, NY
May 14, 2004
Just to clarify on the Coffin Buttress approach. Start as for Crescent Crack from the highway. A fork is encountered a ways up which has the right branch go into a water drainage (left goes through overgrown trees to Crescent Crack). This drainage is the trail. Follow this, eventually leading to scrambling across slabs to the base of the Coffin.

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