Coffin Buttress Rock Climbing
The Coffin Buttress is home to one of the finest finger cracks in Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Coffin (5.9). Also, a couple of bolted routes run up the slabs and a very difficult crack splits the Coffin Roof (5.12).
Park in the Little Cottonwood
lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below the obvious shaped Coffin Buttress
The most enjoyable way to get to The Coffin
is to first climb Crescent Crack
(5.7, 2 pitches) on the Crescent Crack Buttress
. This lands you right at the base of the rock. Another alternative is to climb a steep trail that leads to the base, to the right of the Crescent Crack Buttress
Weather station 3.0 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Coffin Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Coffin Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Coffin Buttress:
The Coffin 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
The Viewing 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Coffin Roof 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Coffin Buttress
Strewn Masters of Hore 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Coffin Buttress
The obvious steep right facing corner on the wall facing east up at the Coffin. If you have ever rapped down from Final Link to the Coffin you have rapped right down this corner.Steep stemming and pulling. Start from a bolted anchor down and to the right of the corner. Follow a flake up into a horizontal crack and then pull up into the corner. At the top of corner exit out onto the left....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Ed Webster attempting the Coffin Roof (5.12a), Lit...
BETA PHOTO: Great map of how to approach the coffin
Anna with the coffin behind her
BETA PHOTO: Crescent Crack Buttress from the road: 1-Mexican C...
By Peter Gram
From: Portland, OR
May 14, 2004
Just to clarify on the Coffin Buttress approach. Start as for Crescent Crack from the highway. A fork is encountered a ways up which has the right branch go into a water drainage (left goes through overgrown trees to Crescent Crack). This drainage is the trail. Follow this, eventually leading to scrambling across slabs to the base of the Coffin.