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The amazing Ben Priestly on lead. The lower part o...
Originally done as 2 pitches of boted, strenuous and interesting 5.10+ R climbing on the laft side of the formation. Some loose rock in the middle of P1 mars this otherwise sweet route. Better if broken into 3 pitches by belaying off the first rap point @26 meters up although can and originally was done in 2 pitches. Start 40 feet uphill from the reading room cave where a singe anchor bolt is located to keep you from rolling down the hill. Consider belaying from the overhang down the hill to avoid loose rockfall untill the route has seen some ascents and is cleaned off a bit.
The first pitch starts at the eye-level belay bolt and trends up and right for 26 meters to the optional belay. or continue to the second anchor. The second pitch eases to 5.9 or 5.10 and has 5 star climbing with solid, amazing and interesting rock, good protection, and an awesome view. If these first 2 pitches are run together the bolt total is 15 for both so feel free to add some as it needs more (according to the FA team). The last pitch is half a rope length.
Rap the route with 60M rope
This should help folks suss out the location for t...