By Tradoholic Aug 8, 2009 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a PG13
According to Sven "Start from block 10-12 ft up and left of crack on Pooper. Climb overhanging face to top, staying left of Pooper.
The Pooper variation is listed at 5.12c/d and goes..."At triangular niche, continue straight up near center of face."
By Alex A Nov 25, 2009 rating: 5.12c/d7c28IX28E6 6b
WOW Dave 5.12a is a sandbag, even for D.L. would say 5.12c, vary thin and technical
By Dylan Colon From: Eugene, OR Sep 18, 2011 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-27E6 6b
I'm going to have to agree with Alex on this being quite a bit harder than 5.12a, at least the way I did it (or did I do "Pooper varition, 5.12c/d"). I started as for Pooper and went straight up instead of doing the thin traverse right you do on Pooper. I went pretty much straight up from there and finished about 4-5 feet left of the chimney on the ledge level with and only a few inches right of the mini-roof under the summit block. I felt like the crux was the absolute last move to the top.
By Dylan Colon From: Eugene, OR Sep 23, 2011 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-27E6 6b
Also, does anyone know if this has ever been led?
By Tradoholic Oct 7, 2011 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a PG13
This thing is stellar except for the most definitely reachy final move. I can do it statically at 6ft tall.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Oct 29, 2011 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Awesome route! The top crux is really good, and I think it helps to have small fingers. Rhoads also pulled off an exciting lead!
By Tradoholic Oct 29, 2011 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a PG13
Yes, I led it and it protects well. A purple C3 is crucial to protect the mantle in the middle of the route.
At the start place gear as far right as possible in the horizontal, if you blow the first crux you will take a huge swing but will live. I reached way left at the start to a nice side pull but figured out later it's less reachy to go straight up off good underclings. I whipped previously from the mantle move and the last move, the falls are pretty big but safe with double ropes.