Steep jugs! No other way to describe this area classic. Probably the best route on the wall and deservedly so.
Gain the ledge below the route by either starting out left (harder) or out right. Traverse the big ledge to get below the first bolt on the route. Start cranking on the jugs to get to the first bolt. Make a slightly reach move to get to the first section of steepness. Clip another bolt and the wall goes back to vertical. Get another bolt just below the big roof. Move up and left to gain the next big ledge and clip the bolt at the edge of the big roof out right. Surmount the final roof and clip the sport shuts.
The route starts around the arete with the project inside the steep dihedral. Look for big chalked up jugs through some steep rock. Only route with sport shuts.
4 bolts to sport shuts. A 60m will get you down.
Eric making the final moves to the shuts.
BETA PHOTO: Getting into the steepness above the first bolt. ...
"Resting" in the steepness.
Christian with the catch
|By Ryan Beasley|
Sep 3, 2012
This route was originally rated 5.10b/c.
|By Cody Bradford|
From: Boone, NC
Mar 3, 2013
Definitely not 11a. It will make you feel stronger though if you tell yourself it is and flash it!
|By Rick Carpenter|
From: Banner Elk, NC
Dec 30, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Isn't that steep and every hold is a jug, this is .10a/b at best.
|By double delay|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 15, 2014
agree with the 10+ rating. 11a isn't totally unwarranted as the climb is longer and steeper than most boone climbs