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BETA PHOTO: Carson on Coco Loco. Big Cottonwood Creek running...
From the ledge at the bottom of La Creme De Shorts, step left around the arete and climb over a bulge formed by a loose-looking (but apparently solid) block. If the block seems too risky, you can move left and turn the bulge (protection in horizontal cracks) then step back right and join the original line. Follow weaknesses up and left to a clean reddish face. (The reddish face is above the ledge system that connects the top of the initial La Creme corner with the belay for Storm Mountain Stupor). Climb the wide but easy crack on the reddish face, move left, then take a line just right of a tree over several bulges to the large ledge on which Layback Crack ends. Belay from cams in horizontal cracks.
When we did this, my 9- and 11-year-old partners rated it 5.5, but it likely would be a handful for a novice leader, hence the rating. A post indicates that this had been climbed before, which I don't doubt given the long history and popularity of the "Island," but since we appear to be the first to report it, I'm calling it by the name suggested by my partners.
Left of the La Creme De Shorts/Layback Crack corners (and their variations) and right of Storm Mountain Stupor.
Standard trad rack. Protection is tricky but adequate so long as the rack includes cams and long runners. No heartburn here if someone wants to add fixed gear. To descend, either walk off by scrambling left then up and over the top, or rappel from the bolts atop Layback Crack, which are 20 or so feet from the end of the route to the up and to the right. For the rappel, a 70 meter rope will get you down in one go; otherwise, you're looking at two rappels.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Nov 30, 2009
this has been solo'd before