Coco-Loco  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Bill Todd and Rosie, November 1986 Submitted By:  C Miller on Jan 1, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Coco Loco.
Photo by Blitzo.

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Description 

Climb an easy but interesting thin crack/corner to a horizontal crack (medium pro here) where a traverse slightly right gives access to the upper portion of the route - a seam to face with a bolt. The crux moves past the bolt are balancy and tenuous and involve edges, sidepulls and overall insecurity - think classic Josh style climbing. Large cams are handy for an anchor in a grainy, flared horizontal crack 10' above the ledge where this finishes.

A fun climb that while seldom done is worthy of more attention. One star out of five.

Location 

This route is located on the left edge of the face with Crown Jewels and lies roughly 15' right of The Castrum.

Protection 

bolt (3/8"), pro to 3.5"

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BETA PHOTO: "Coco Loco" Photo by Blitzo.