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Cockroach Rock itself is rotten. The climbing varies, but the rock is rotten. There's not a climb on the rock that you couldn't pull half the holds off of.
Park at the road closure on the way to the Lost Horse Ranger Station, take the Access Fund trail (nicer than walking in the wash.)
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cockroach Crag:
Classic Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Featured Route For Cockroach Crag
Classic Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Cockroach Crag
Not much ambiguity here. It's a clean, right angle, right facing dihedral, into a roof, which you pass with the handcrack on the right.There is (or was, as of January 1, 2003) a loose block a few feet up in the crack. You can choose to either crank on it, thereby changing the lower section of the climb and possibly injuring your belayer, or carefully avoid it, thereby leaving the climb intact. I recommend the latter. :)There's a downclimb to climber's left....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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