Cockroach Crags. Photo by Blitzo.
Cockroach Rock itself is rotten. The climbing varies, but the rock is rotten. There's not a climb on the rock that you couldn't pull half the holds off of.
But much of it is fun anyway, particularly if you're not leading it. :) Classic Corner
(5.7) is actually not on Cockroach, but is immediately next to it. It's a fantastic hand crack, and well worth the hike up the talus.
Fortunately, all of the climbs on Cockroach can be toproped by hiking up the gully on either side to gain the top of the rock.
Park at the road closure on the way to the Lost Horse Ranger Station, take the Access Fund trail (nicer than walking in the wash.)
After you pass the Aiguille de Joshua Tree, go around another ridge on your left and look to the skyline. The most obvious locator is Classic Corner, an obvious right facing dihedral with an equally obvious roof 2/3 of the way up. Cockroach Crag itself is the "squat, brown rock" to the right of the rock containing Classic Corner.
Weather station 10.7 miles from here
7 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cockroach Crag:
Featured Route For Cockroach Crag
Classic Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Cockroach Crag
Not much ambiguity here. It's a clean, right angle, right facing dihedral, into a roof, which you pass with the handcrack on the right.There is (or was, as of January 1, 2003) a loose block a few feet up in the crack. You can choose to either crank on it, thereby changing the lower section of the climb and possibly injuring your belayer, or carefully avoid it, thereby leaving the climb intact. I recommend the latter. :)There's a downclimb to climber's left....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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BETA PHOTO: Cockroach Crag from the approach. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Cockroach crag is the squat brown rock in the fore...
Cockroach Crag-Northwest side. Photo by Blitzo.
Green Visitor Rock, Joshua Tree NP