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Cockroach Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Classic Corner T 
Climb Of The Cockroaches T 
Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The T 
False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) T 
Leatherhead Arete, The T 
R.S. Chicken Choker T 
Roach Roof T 

Cockroach Crag 


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Page Views: 8,566
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 9, 2003
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Cockroach Crags.
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Cockroach Rock itself is rotten. The climbing varies, but the rock is rotten. There's not a climb on the rock that you couldn't pull half the holds off of.

But much of it is fun anyway, particularly if you're not leading it. :)

Classic Corner (5.7) is actually not on Cockroach, but is immediately next to it. It's a fantastic hand crack, and well worth the hike up the talus.

Fortunately, all of the climbs on Cockroach can be toproped by hiking up the gully on either side to gain the top of the rock.


Getting There 

Park at the road closure on the way to the Lost Horse Ranger Station, take the Access Fund trail (nicer than walking in the wash.)

After you pass the Aiguille de Joshua Tree, go around another ridge on your left and look to the skyline. The most obvious locator is Classic Corner, an obvious right facing dihedral with an equally obvious roof 2/3 of the way up. Cockroach Crag itself is the "squat, brown rock" to the right of the rock containing Classic Corner.


Climbing Season


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cockroach Crag:
Classic Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in Cockroach Crag

Featured Route For Cockroach Crag
Classic Corner

Classic Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Cockroach Crag
Not much ambiguity here. It's a clean, right angle, right facing dihedral, into a roof, which you pass with the handcrack on the right.There is (or was, as of January 1, 2003) a loose block a few feet up in the crack. You can choose to either crank on it, thereby changing the lower section of the climb and possibly injuring your belayer, or carefully avoid it, thereby leaving the climb intact. I recommend the latter. :)There's a downclimb to climber's left....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Cockroach Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Cockroach Crag from the approach. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Cockroach Crag from the approach.
Photo by Blitzo.
Cockroach crag is the squat brown rock in the foreground. The Case Of The Missing Nolina (5.6) climbs the obvious corner system up and to the left.
BETA PHOTO: Cockroach crag is the squat brown rock in the fore...
Cockroach Crag-Northwest side. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Cockroach Crag-Northwest side.
Photo by Blitzo.
Green Visitor Rock, Joshua Tree NP
Green Visitor Rock, Joshua Tree NP
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