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 ADVANCED
Cockroach Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Classic Corner T 
Climb Of The Cockroaches T 
Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The T 
False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) T 
Leatherhead Arete, The T 
R.S. Chicken Choker T 
Roach Roof T 

Cockroach Crag  


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Location: 34.01323, -116.17615 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,882
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 9, 2003
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Description 

Cockroach Rock itself is rotten. The climbing varies, but the rock is rotten. There's not a climb on the rock that you couldn't pull half the holds off of.

But much of it is fun anyway, particularly if you're not leading it. :)

Classic Corner (5.7) is actually not on Cockroach, but is immediately next to it. It's a fantastic hand crack, and well worth the hike up the talus.

Fortunately, all of the climbs on Cockroach can be toproped by hiking up the gully on either side to gain the top of the rock.


Getting There 

Park at the road closure on the way to the Lost Horse Ranger Station, take the Access Fund trail (nicer than walking in the wash.)

After you pass the Aiguille de Joshua Tree, go around another ridge on your left and look to the skyline. The most obvious locator is Classic Corner, an obvious right facing dihedral with an equally obvious roof 2/3 of the way up. Cockroach Crag itself is the "squat, brown rock" to the right of the rock containing Classic Corner.


Climbing Season



Weather station 10.7 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cockroach Crag:
Classic Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in Cockroach Crag

Featured Route For Cockroach Crag
The Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, 5.8 and R.S. Chicke...

The Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Cockroach Crag
This is the obvious double crack system on the top half of the right side of the southwest face of Cockroach Crag.The bottom section is relatively rotten, but protects adequately if you avoid the really loose stuff.The double crack system is wonderful, straight-on, solid, well-protected hands. Like many climbs, it's main crime is being too short....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Cockroach Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Cockroach Crag from the approach. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Cockroach Crag from the approach. Photo by Blitzo.
Cockroach crag is the squat brown rock in the fore...
BETA PHOTO: Cockroach crag is the squat brown rock in the fore...
Cockroach Crag-Northwest side. Photo by Blitzo.
Cockroach Crag-Northwest side. Photo by Blitzo.
Green Visitor Rock, Joshua Tree NP
Green Visitor Rock, Joshua Tree NP

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