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South Peak - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
A Better Way T 
Agony T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Bite, The T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Breakneck Direct T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
By Pass T 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 
Conn's West T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
Crispy Critter T 
Critter Crack T 
Crusher Critter T 
Debbie T 
Easy Over T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 
Front C T 
Gendarme Direct T 
Gendarme South Face, The T 
Gendarme, The T 
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 
Green Wall T 
Gunsight to South Peak T 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 
Heartburn T 
Humphrey's Head T 
Jankowitz-Kamm T 
Kosher Critter T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
Manual Dexterity T 
Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Roof Traverse T 
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 
Scrambled Leggs T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 
Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Cecil & Justin Day
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 830
Submitted By: Tom Cecil on Aug 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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This climb starts about ten feet left of 'Breakneck' and 30' right of 'Triple S'.
Follow flakes and edges to the obvious right facing corner. A #5 HB and a small wire are your only protection until you reach the corner where a #2 Camalot comes in way handy. Follow the corner up and past two bolts to the second right facing and slightly overhanging flake (TCU's).Move right to jugs and last bolt,make a long reach to a jug. Follow the corners to a two bolt anchor.


The obvious right facing corner and face ten feet left of Breakneck and 30' right of Triple S.


Gold camalot is the biggest piece you'll need. Bring a standard Seneca rack including HB's.

Comments on Cockfight Add Comment
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By Vicki Schwantes
From: Washington, DC
Aug 14, 2012

The move around the second right facing corner seemed harder than 5.9+, because I couldn't get any traction with my feet! Got a .3 C4 in that corner and took some falls on that :) Fun climbing.
By Tom Cecil
Feb 17, 2013

good job Vicki! I think we were watching you that day--looked like you were having fun-
By ascender30
Apr 17, 2014

At the first right-facing corner, it separates at the bottom into a detached flake...which is loose. I suggest you don't pull hard on it.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 12, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Were more bolts added to this? I was expecting two bolts and there were actually four on this climb, the last one I thought was not needed but hey I clipped it anyway. Perhaps it was PG13 but this climb is totally protectable with a few small pieces. No need for a #2 unless you mean a C3...bomber piece at the crux moves under the right-facing corner/overhang before the last bolt. If the last bolt wasn't there you'd probably plug that #2 C4 cam Tom mentioned.

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