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Middle Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Candyass T 
Candyland T 
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 
Clam, The T 
Cockabooty T 
Corn Flakes T 
Fancy Dancin' T,S 
Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
Lean And Mean T 
Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
Regular Route T 
Slowdancer T 
Tyro's Test Piece T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed T 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on May 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Some common variations of Cockabooty.

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The usual route follows a crack system up a dihedral. Many variations are possible, with jams, stemming and face moves available. Above the dihedral, step left over a couple of ledges and humps to protect it well, then finger traverse back right to the anchor using a crack under a roof. Alternately, go direct from the end of the dihedral to the anchor.


West side of the Middle Spire. As you hike from the parking lot, it's the big left-facing dihedral just left of Over Easy's detached flake and roof.

Most people start the route higher than ground level. From the trail, scramble up a short (10 feet?) class 3 ramp to a comfortable ledge where the dihedral goes vertical. Belaying a leader is better here, but you might stay on the ground if belaying topropes.

Lower or rap off the anchor.

This is a natural first pitch to reach the start of the Prow, if you're looking for an adventurous line to the top of the Spire.


Trad pro to 2" or 3", but no knobs or naturals on this one. Two bolt chain anchor at top.

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By Kyle Napierkowski
May 21, 2013

Fun to do laps up these variations on TR

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