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Cochiti Mesa

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Dihedrals, The 
North Cliffband 
South Cliffband 
Upper Cliff Band 

Cochiti Mesa 

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Location: 35.7164, -106.3977 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 49,876
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006
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Overview of Cochiti Mesa crags


This is the main crag in the area, offering over 60 excellent routes. Shaded in the AM, sunny in PM.

Getting There 

See description on main page

Climbing Season

43 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cochiti Mesa:
Thief Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   North Cliffband
Monkey Lust   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   North Cliffband
Just Say No to Crack   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   South Cliffband
Another Lichen Nightmare   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Cliffband
The Boya from La Jolla Who Stepped on a Cholla   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Upper Cliff Band
Dynabolic   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 70'   South Cliffband
The Prow   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Cliffband
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS)   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   North Cliffband
Dreamscape   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   South Cliffband
Praise the Lunge   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   North Cliffband
La Espina   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 70'   North Cliffband
Thief in Time   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   North Cliffband
Gunning for the Buddha   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   North Cliffband
Shadowdancer   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Cliffband
Browse More Classics in Cochiti Mesa

Featured Route For Cochiti Mesa
TR-ing one of the many variations of Whining Dog.  The 'proper' line is just to the right of the large fissure up the huge huecos.  A fun route for beginners, I would imagine.

Whining Dog 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Upper Cliff Band
This super-fun route climbs the softest stone at Cochiti, which is saying quite a lot. The route was bolted for leading at one time, but the bolts were removed, presumably by hand, when it was determined that the notion of bolts in this rock was just plain crazy. However, the route has recently been resurrected with a new bolted TR anchor. If you can lower yourself to the level of TR-ing, this is a must-do route, and an excellent warmup....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Cochiti Mesa Slideshow Add Photo
Main area floor meadow.
BETA PHOTO: Main area floor meadow.
Main area overview 7/8/12.
BETA PHOTO: Main area overview 7/8/12.
Parking area/approach.
BETA PHOTO: Parking area/approach.
Laurel's Climb boulder and Monkey Lust. Area is done.
BETA PHOTO: Laurel's Climb boulder and Monkey Lust. Area is do...
Comments on Cochiti Mesa Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 9, 2012

Update: I went out here yesterday and discovered that most of, if not all of these routes were affected greatly by the Los Conchas fire in 2011. Bolts and rock layers have been cooked by firestorms with ambient air temps greater than 2500 degrees Fahrenheit. There are no live trees left, no shade, crumbling rock, burned hardware, and is pretty much a wasteland now. It was quite sobering to find this. This marks the end of an era, and a wonderful area that this was. I am thankful to have gotten to climb the years that I have there. I did not make it to Eagle Canyon to check it, but I am assuming the worst as well. The Dihedrals were cooked too. Vista Point seems to be ok, but could use some anchor upgrades as there are no trees to anchor with. I guess you could drive a car to the rim and use it for an anchor. I will head out again at some point to verify the status of the crags I did not make it to, and will post.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jul 9, 2012

Oh no....this is super sad news, both for the area and the climbing itself. Please keep posting as you find out more information (including info concerning Eagle Canyon). Wow, so depressing.
Thanks Scott.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 15, 2012

For more information on the current post fire status see this thread www.mountainproject.com/v/cochiti-mesa-update/107695146#a_10>>>