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Cochiti Mesa

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Dihedrals, The 
North Cliffband 
South Cliffband 
Upper Cliff Band 

Cochiti Mesa Rock Climbing 


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Location: 35.7164, -106.3977 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,139
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006
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Overview of Cochiti Mesa crags

Description 

This is the main crag in the area, offering over 60 excellent routes. Shaded in the AM, sunny in PM.

Getting There 

See description on main page

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.2 miles from here

43 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',18],['5.12',8],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cochiti Mesa

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cochiti Mesa:
Monkey Lust   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   North Cliffband
Just Say No to Crack   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   South Cliffband
The Boya from La Jolla Who Stepped on a Cholla   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Upper Cliff Band
Another Lichen Nightmare   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Cliffband
Dynabolic   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 70'   South Cliffband
The Prow   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Cliffband
Dreamscape   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   South Cliffband
Praise the Lunge   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   North Cliffband
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS)   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   North Cliffband
La Espina   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 70'   North Cliffband
Gunning for the Buddha   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   North Cliffband
Shadowdancer   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Cliffband
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cochiti Mesa

Featured Route For Cochiti Mesa
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking straight up at the dreamscape.

Dreamscape 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : South Cliffband
Climb the converging double cracks for about 15 feet. Both are splitter, and neither provide solid jams. After they converge, deal with the sustained tiny finger crack (crux) for about 25 feet. This crack is generally too small for fingers, but the offset faces provide lieback opportunities. The crack finally bends right and get steeper and wider as you reach slightly overhung hands jams to the progressively wider and steeper finish. Combining face and crack techniques is probably best for ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Cochiti Mesa Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Laurel's Climb boulder and Monkey Lust. Area is do...
BETA PHOTO: Laurel's Climb boulder and Monkey Lust. Area is do...
Rock Climbing Photo: Main area overview 7/8/12.
BETA PHOTO: Main area overview 7/8/12.
Rock Climbing Photo: Main area floor meadow.
BETA PHOTO: Main area floor meadow.
Rock Climbing Photo: Parking area/approach.
BETA PHOTO: Parking area/approach.
Rock Climbing Photo: John Duran free-soloing Fainting Imam (5.12c), Coc...
John Duran free-soloing Fainting Imam (5.12c), Coc...

Comments on Cochiti Mesa Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 9, 2012
Update: I went out here yesterday and discovered that most of, if not all of these routes were affected greatly by the Los Conchas fire in 2011. Bolts and rock layers have been cooked by firestorms with ambient air temps greater than 2500 degrees Fahrenheit. There are no live trees left, no shade, crumbling rock, burned hardware, and is pretty much a wasteland now. It was quite sobering to find this. This marks the end of an era, and a wonderful area that this was. I am thankful to have gotten to climb the years that I have there. I did not make it to Eagle Canyon to check it, but I am assuming the worst as well. The Dihedrals were cooked too. Vista Point seems to be ok, but could use some anchor upgrades as there are no trees to anchor with. I guess you could drive a car to the rim and use it for an anchor. I will head out again at some point to verify the status of the crags I did not make it to, and will post.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jul 9, 2012
Oh no....this is super sad news, both for the area and the climbing itself. Please keep posting as you find out more information (including info concerning Eagle Canyon). Wow, so depressing.
Thanks Scott.
By DisturbingThePeace
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Oct 15, 2012
For more information on the current post fire status see this thread mountainproject.com/v/cochiti-...

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