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Cocaine Rodeo 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Aaron Huey
Page Views: 3,552
Submitted By: GabeO on Jul 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Me on cocaine rodeo. Photo by Rayna McGinnis.

Description 

This superb route has several distinct cruxes, with good rests in between. The rock is super-compact throughout, with pinches, pockets, and crimps galore. For the most part, it gently overhangs, though there is also a small bulge, and some slabby sections.


Location 

The first route to the right of the roof. Start directly in front of the tree on a super-clean face.


Protection 

15 bolts



Photos of Cocaine Rodeo Slideshow Add Photo
Jon on the Rodeo.
Jon on the Rodeo.
Cocaine Rodeo. Aug '14.
Cocaine Rodeo. Aug '14.
Comments on Cocaine Rodeo Add Comment
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By HoseBeats
Jul 7, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route is as good as 12a gets.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Jun 26, 2012

Totally fantastic. You pull a tough move or two, get a rest, then glance up and see there's still a TON to go! Mega. Might want to watch it if lowering with a 60m.

By John Dubya
Aug 18, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Wow what a great climb! There's really not a shut-down move on the climb so the crux seems to be keeping the pump at bay. Seems evident that this route gets some traffic by the polished black foot holds covered in rubber...adds a little difficulty to the crux moves.

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2013

May be the best 12a I have done. Absolutely amazing climb!

By Jean Spencer
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 2, 2013

Now that was fun! Especially liked the you're-not-done-yet crux at the top.

By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
Jan 12, 2014

Wohoo, my first 12a lead at 43 years of age!