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(f) Cocaine Gully

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armageddon S 
Blade, The S 
Bloodshot S 
Bongo Fury S 
Bound in Bogata S 
Chicken McNuggets S 
Cocaine Crack T 
Crack Babies S 
Deep Impact S 
Freebase S 
Hippos on Ice S 
Hobbit's Pockets S 
Powder Up the Nose S 
Quest to Fire S 
Skeleton Surfer S 
Slit Your Wrists S 
Thieves S 
Vomit Launch S 

(f) Cocaine Gully Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.36719, -121.14307 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,620
Administrators: Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006


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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>


The Cocaine Gully sits parallel to the Aggro gully to its right. The short steep walk is well worth it to get to the pumpfests found within.

Getting There 

The Cocaine Gully lies between the West Ship and the Morning Glory Wall. Follow a path up underneath the right side of the gigantic boulder at its mouth of the gully, then take the trails up as high as you need them.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.0 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (f) Cocaine Gully:
Chicken McNuggets   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Deep Impact   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Powder Up the Nose   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Armageddon   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Skeleton Surfer   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   
Vomit Launch   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Bloodshot   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 90'   
Quest to Fire   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Freebase   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Crack Babies   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Slit Your Wrists   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (f) Cocaine Gully

Featured Route For (f) Cocaine Gully
Rock Climbing Photo: Corey McCarthy styling this fine little crux festi...

Bloodshot 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  OR : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully
A motley of cruxes pepper this classic route, but it's mainly defined by its sustained, deviously circuitous character. You get everything - a tricky overhanging deadpoint (or trickier static), a thin and technical crux, a sustained finish, and a great view at the top.For such a large crag, smith is heavy on great 12's, 13's and 14's, and relatively short on world class bolted elevens. Of the (two or three) handfuls that qualify, this is absolutely one of the best. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Comments on (f) Cocaine Gully Add Comment
Show which comments
By hotlum
From: Roseburg, OR
Dec 11, 2011
Went up Cocaine this week (December 2011). The normal approach is in bad shape. There is warning tape saying the approach is closed, but people still go up. The stuff is very unconsolidated and not safe. The way up/down on lookers left is solid but 4th-ish, exposed, but solid. If you are not in proper footwear, like keens or flip-flops put your climbing shoes on!
I believe the conditions will change as more water flushes out rock. Might get better, might get worse.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Dec 16, 2011
The traditional approach (via the climber's right side of the gully) has been closed due to the high frequency of rockfall. The base of Vomit Launch is right at the top of it and anything knocked down by parties up there scours the tunnel and anyone in it.

There is a reasonable alternative on the extreme climber's left side of the gully which involves some maybe-exposed 4th classing, (comparable to Asterisk Pass) but has far less loose rock.
By kent benesch
Apr 18, 2015
There is now a rappel anchor to facilitate an easy and safe descent from Cocaine Gully. The anchor is located at the left hand side (as you look towards the river)of the gully near the base of The Blade. 2 stainless bolts with long chains. Spread the word!

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