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Cocaine Crack

Name: Cocaine Crack
Rating: 3.1

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Icicle Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Andrew Said It Doesn’t Count V0 4
	Arch Enemy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bumper Belay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Canadians On Horseback S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Cocaine Connection S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cocaine Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crumble Pie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Forking Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Good Gravy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	I Didn't Exhale S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	R & D T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spaghetti Sauce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tober T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	7,583 total · 43/month
Shared By:	Tom Bath on Nov 3, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.

A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.

In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.

Description

A right leaning finger crack with great position and exposure. The crux occurs where the crack leans right in the upper half.

Location

Splitting the clean face left of the R&D chimney, one pitch off the deck on the left side of Icicle Buttress.

There are several ways to get to Cocaine Crack as notated by Geoff Georges. The right or left variations to the first pitch of R&D lead up a shallow corner to the base of the crack. A direct 5.8 chimney can also be done in between the two, or the bolted slab route Cocaine Connection.

At the top of the crack you can go right or left under the roof. If you want to scramble off after Cocaine Crack head right and belay level with the roof, then walk off. Otherwise either side will take you to the 5.6 finish of R&D, which can be done in one long pitch to the top with a 70m rope. Then walk off Icicle Buttress to the left or rappel the route.