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Cocaine Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Tom Bath on Nov 3, 2009

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cocaine crack

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A right leaning finger crack with great position and exposure. The crux occurs where the crack leans rigth in the upper half.


Spliiting the clean face left of the R&D chimney.


Gear to 3"

Photos of Cocaine Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shirley dispatching Cocaine Crack while Pat & I wa...
Shirley dispatching Cocaine Crack while Pat & I wa...

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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There are several ways to approach Cocaine Crack:
1. Cocaine connection, fun slab route.( 5.7)
2. R&D, right or left (5.6)
3. directly up chimney like corner below Cocaine (5.8)
4. Start up chimney, after 25' cut left and go up 2 inside corners to a long hand crack that comes out just left and below Cocaine.( 5.9)
By littleman
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun crack that leans right.
By Michael T.
From: Mill Creek, WA
Oct 3, 2016

Super fun hand to finger crack! I decided to traverse left onto the blocky section under the roof, and broke off a good sized chunk of one of the blocks, resulting in a pretty spicy barn door. I'm pretty sure that any rock fall from there would miss your belayer but definitely could bounce towards the first pitch of R&D where a crowd had formed. Unable to take the hold with me I had to sit it on a flat spot en route, just something to keep in mind.

Also i'd have to recommend extending the piton under the roof with a double, the rope drag can be atrocious.

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